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Okay time to drop some knowledge:
Ceramic caps are VERY reliable, and should not be changed except if you have good reason to suspect one in a malfunctioning circuit.
The can caps C1 and C2 in your set are each essentially four different lytics in the same can with the negative leads tied to the can....The four positive leads come out the bottom center and are marked with triangle, square, semi-circle, or blank so that the different positive terminals of the different 'sections' (caps in the can) can be distinguished from each other.
Getting another can exactly like it is a BAD move....Aside from overpriced guitar amp niche cans, can lytics like that have been out of production for decades, and any you find (even NOS) are likely to be as bad as what is in the set.....You are going to have to either re-stuff the cans or find places under the chassis to put the replacements that is just the way it is for us tube based electronic restorers these days.
There are cheaper usable caps that you are missing in your search. First off any cap with a higher voltage rating and acceptable capacitance will work. As for an acceptable capacitance with lytics assume a 10-15% tolerance in cap value is fine (papers and films can be more finicky)....Back in the day parts makers had a different set of standard part ratings then those used today so a 50uF cap is non-standard and more expensive, but a 47uf of the same voltage is common and cheap. The modern standard values include 1, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 6.8, 8.2 and any power of 10 multiple there of.
Hope this helps you.
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