Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver
Ok based on the A code motor:
A 460 CID 4V V-8 (52,466 Built; 72.3%)
Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in.
Comp. ratio: 8.0:1
Horsepower: 210 at 4200 RPM
Torque: 357 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM
Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350 <---which means....
underneath that air cleaner lid is a 4bbl carb. now we are getting somewhere, remove, rebuild, pay attention to the choke system. THAT is why it sputters when cold.
furthermore, you mentioned PS fluid leak, from the pics, you have the saginaw (GM) pump, very cheap to obtain.
As you work on the motor over the years, the factory valve cover and cleaner paint is 'old ford blue'.
See to the left of the motor (as you face car) the air cleaner 'arm' with the bellows hose and plastic? that is the cold air snorkle. Its not as restrictive as most, but it does impede air flow. why? noise. moving air = noise, lincoln owners dont wanna hear noise. If you can find a dual snorkle cleaner, more air inside. See the silver hose under the snorkle? heat riser. Make sure when cold the valve on top does in fact open - aids in cold start, it forces air past the manifolds and warms up sooner.
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Thanks for the info. Me and a friend leaned up the fuel mixture last Friday, checked the idle speed (fast idle is good, slow idle where it tends to run rough is at the upper end of the tolerance range), and checked the timing (it looks right, but it is hard to tell for certain since only the TDC mark is still readily readable).
I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready.
I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can.
I fixed the horns Saturday evening...Some times the horns not working is as simple as the horns not working...I tried jumpering their positive leads to battery + and nothing happened, so I unplugged them and connected a 12V lamp to their supply leads, and watched as the horn button lit the lamp when pressed (pfew, that would have been an annoying open to try and trace). I unbolted the horns, drilled out the rivets holding them together, and found that the switch contacts were dirty. The horn is basically an audio frequency relay oscillator with the solenoid arm connected to a metal acoustic diaphragm driving am acoustic horn. After cleaning the contacts I had to tweak their adjustment as I reassembled them to make it so that they would continue to oscillate after the diaphragm was properly clamped between the two halfs of the assembly. I'll have to recheck my work this evening to see if it is still good. In repairing them I realized that the horns have different tones from each other.
The coolant is a bit low so I'm going to try and get some this evening to top it off.