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Old 04-01-2015, 11:13 PM
Findm-Keepm's Avatar
Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
I was guessing they were #47 bulbs. Just tested a couple of #47s. Each shows 7 ohms cold, rising to 10 ohms (due to heating from the VOM's 1.5V battery).

I don't have a #44 to test, but it would probably be around 4.2 ohms cold (due to higher current rating, .25A vs .15A).

Though maybe not "huge" but still a signifigant ESR figure if the bulb's in series with a 10 mf cap. But then you gotta figger in filament heating due to ripple, which will further increase resistance.

In any case, it seems like the more rational place to put a limiter/fuse would be directly in the B+ line coming off the rectifier.
Or two bulbs, one in each leg of the HV winding going to the rectifier plates.
Or, one bulb in the center-tap lead of the HV winding.

Just curious - where did you get the 1/10 ohm figure for the #44 bulb?
Chicago miniature lamp catalog, dated 4/63, "measured at 25degrees C with millivolt bridge, to avoid heating effects." My L&N millivolt potentiometer has a setup card telling how to perform cold testing of tube filaments, all done with a few millivolts.

What do you figure for the ESR? 10 @450 is worst case 28 or so ohms......for that vintage......

I wonder why two bulbs, perhaps taps of the B supply, or a straight splitting to reduce the current out each leg through the bulbs?

Looks a lot like my Philco 86 chassis....
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"Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79"

When fuses go to work, they quit!

Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 04-01-2015 at 11:32 PM.
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