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The speaker is connected to the audio output transformer that is connected to the audio output tube (and B+) you just have to trace it back.
Tubes, while not infallible, rarely fail in radio and audio applications (I'd be more suspicious of capacitors both filter and coupling types). You don't need gloves to handle tubes (unless you are removing them immediately after the set has been on for a good while)....Dust and finger prints don't hurt them, and as long as you don't wipe off the labels (which makes repairs less easy), or break the glass there is little you can do to damage them.
As for the cord being part of the back (called the safety interlock) you can get a separate appliance line cord that will mate with the chassis socket at ACE hardware (and possibly other places) for a few bucks.
Some euro sets put B+ and other unpleasant voltages above chassis so observe safety precautions while working with it powered and the back off. Keep one hand in your pocket, don't work on concrete, tile floor, or bare ground or with any part of your body touching an electrical ground.
Most euro sets have a sort of piano key bank of push buttons for a band switch that selects AM, FM, usually one or more SW (short wave) bands, and sometimes LW, and audio inputs.
Some are above chassis some are below. I've probably never worked on the exact model you have so I can't tell you much of anything about physical layout without a picture of the chassis.
If your set has an audio input connecting an audio source to it such as a MP3 player may give you some insight (if you hear clear audio then the audio stages are good).
Last edited by Electronic M; 05-04-2015 at 04:39 PM.
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