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An important thing to do once you have a good raster is to get a plastic hex alignment tool (metal will crack the slug), and an analog multi-meter with a 0-250 or 0-500mA scale, and a .47uF cap, break the cathode connection to ground and insert the meter across the break with the cap in parallel with it. Use the alignment tool to adjust the horizontal linearity/efficiency coil to minimize the cathode current. It should minimize in the 175-210mA range (if higher look for problems). This minimizes the strain on the flyback transformer. RCAs and clones were notorious for eating flyback transformers (part of the reason they are scarce now) by stressing them to death.
On the video/chroma board there should be a IIRC .01uF cap near (against the socket of) one of tubes on the right half of the chassis...Usually that cap is bad from heat.
If if has a totally dark screen when on, but flashes color when turned off look for a bad boost diode.
My Silvertone was my first color resto (I did many radios and some monochrome sets prior), and aside from it blowing it's damper tube (and me thinking it could not happen rapidly with no obvious indication like it did) which had me spinning my wheels looking at the wrong things, it was a relatively straight forward resto.
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