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I know which doorknob cap your talking about, and I felt it, and it seemed to be cool, at least after 15 minutes or so, and ran my HV probe around the back side of it, and no arcs between the metal frame and back side of the capacitor. Although, I still wonder if it could be leaky causing the problems. I have a CRT booster in which I can make extension cables out of it, and also an octal socket for the yoke, provided it handles the higher horizontal voltages going to the yoke. Convergence with the sub chassis removed should give me enough room to hook it up. My problem right now is finding a long enough HV wire with connectors in order to hook up the CRT with insulated plugs or sockets that won't arc to something close, or produce corona. I found HV lead wire on e-bay, but I need something to insulate the connections. The one end I can stick in a wire, in tape it and it probably would be fine. The other has to plug onto an exposed pin coming off the wire that goes straight to the CRT. I need to find something in which I can solder a terminal onto and plug into the wire going to the CRT, and have some kind of a sleeve to go over it that will insulate the connection. I also have the possibility of getting a color test jig in a couple of weeks. Doubt if it will work on the CTC2B, but maybe it will have some HV, or yoke connectors that I can use. Even if I could hook up the high voltage and yoke to it, at least it should give me an image, (although not converged) I could work with it to start with..
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