Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakiri
For me, it's difficult because I've never had any formal electronics training whatsoever . . . . . . Hands, I've got. Diagnostic skills, not so much. Doesn't stop me from trying and learning though.
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One of the hardest TV repair jobs that I've ever undertaken was late 1940s TV with a stacked power supply circuit, with a humongous candohm that balanced the load between two different DC plus voltage power supplies and one DC negative voltage.
The monster candohm was open when I got the set and it was quickly located and changed out with a NOS candohm. On power-up, all three voltages were still all messed up, but in a new way. It turns out that the NOS candohm was pinched too hard in manufacture and it had a short to ground in the center.
Not hard to find, but so damned unexpected, that it was the last place I checked because I'd already changed out that bleeder network. Duh!
So, if I were you, the first thing I'd check is to verify that neither of the two resistors you replaced have a direct short to ground on either end.
The second thing I would check, would be the ohms readings on the 5V4 damper, that are in Sams. Note the '*' listing, which tells where you are to park your ground for this tube.
The final check would be to open the R123 connections to recreate the original conditions, replace the R127B, power up and see if the newest R127B gets hot. Purpose: Something else could have happened at the same time that you put in the Horiz Linearity resistor.
Since ETF also has a factory single set RCA manual for this TV, why would one use a maybe "schematic" that covers two sets that were built two years apart when the exact is available.
Sams R123 = RCA R209 and Sams R127B = RCA R232.
For the record: My nearest to formal education in electronics was the Progressive Edu-Kit in 1952:
http://www.ohio.edu/people/postr/bapix/edukit.htm
The one mentioned, along a more advanced one and with every book on electronics in the local County Library.
Hope this helps.
Jas.