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Well, here is the latest as of Tuesday Nov. 3rd, 2015. I actually have a picture, color, sound and everything one would expect. Yes, I have had several problems getting there and still have problems to work out. All capacitors have been changed with caps from Capacitor World, with correct values. I did not re-stuff the cans, however I left the cans in there for appearance, and since most of the capacitors are so much smaller, there was plenty of room to mount them underneath. The big filter cans, I mounted smaller size ones on top, and I intend to put insulating sleeves over them to make it look close to original. I had to replace the horizontal output tube 6CD5 as it was weak, the vertical output tube as it showed weak on my checker, and when I got it one of the 3A2 Rectifiers was broken, so I changed all 3. Also one of the 12BH7's showed a short on my checker, so it was also changed with a NOS. I added a 5.1 ohm 25 watt resistor in series with the B+, and at my line voltage I have 405 volts, as the Sams calls for 400 volts, so I figure it's pretty close. I changed all of the white peaking coils, with values as close as possible, (most were right on), as half of them were open. I also had to change the big 2500pf 30KV doorknob capacitor as the one that was in there would arc and go off like a fire cracker. (oh yes, when it arced one time, it shorted the video detector diode 1N60 which I had to change). I now have 24KV at the second anode although the Sams says to set it at 25KV. HV won't adjust any higher. I was able to hook it up with a long piece of HV anode wire, an octal yoke extension, and used a booster as an extender for the CRT, although I patched the filament in directly eliminating the boost, as I didn't was to increase the filament voltage to the CRT. After powering it up on the bench without the CRT connected, I set the chassis on top of the cabinet, hooking everything up, even a speaker. I monitored the horizontal output current and it is running around 205ma. I had a raster, way off purity, but no big deal. I then hooked up a converter box to the antenna terminals and put the set on channel 4. I had a picture, not good, way off convergence, purity etc, but I was so happy, I actually had a picture. Of course I had to adjust the purity and center convergence. But then the next hurdle, I had no color. Checked with my scope for 3.58 osc. waveform and there was none. Started checking voltages, and the ones around the oscillator seemed to be within range, except for the color killer. I then concluded that probably the crystal was bad. Ordered a NOS crystal, soldered it in underneath, and I had 3.58 MHz waveform, but still no color. Got checking further, and found R211 12.5K 10 watt resistor open. Replaced it, and presto I had color, although sometimes the color was out of lock. I found that the crystal though needed to have it's case grounded like the original, so found a way to ground it, and now I have full tint range, and reasonable color. CRT looks good, and shows good emission on my Beltron checker. The next hurdle was that the picture was snowy, like watching a distant analog station. Found the 3.3 meg resistor on top of the tuner that supplies the RF agc was also open. Replaced it. Well, No snow! Oh yes, earlier in the restoration, I had to change the focus control and associated resistors. I had to compromise a bit on some of the values, but the focus looks good, and is adjusted to the center of the control. The next hurdle I haven't figured out quite yet. When I increase the contrast and or brightness the picture goes out of focus and pulls in from the sides, mainly the left side of the picture. I am still wondering if I could still have a bad horizontal output, damper, regulator, or horiz oscillator tube. It seems as if the beam current really pulls down the HV at higher brightness, causing the picture to narrow. That is where I'm at right now. Of course the cabinet needs to be touched up and or refinished, and I have decided I will not pull the 21AXP22 out, as I don't want to risk either breaking it, or it going to air. The top is the worst and it can be sanded and refinished with no problem as it comes off. I know of a guy that does woodworking and I might have him figure out what would be best to do, and do some work on it. Of course the trim, glass, pencil door, etc. all have to be cleaned up and polished. Here are some more pictures and screen shots. Oh yes, I was able to make a yoke cover out of a fairly solid Tupperware lid, cutting a hole through the center, and mounting the rings on it, gluing it all in place with silicon seal.
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