Findem Keepim: I did give it around 15-25 min to dry before reassembling the cage and running it. I've never needed to use a caulk or corona dope to fix an arcing/corona problem before (previous issues I've dealt with were solved by cleaning dirt off insulators and or replacing bad HV wire). I only ran it that way because in the youtube videos by Shango66 that Arcanine pointed me to for reference Shango66 seemed to do the same thing: remove old material, caulk and turn it back on with the caulk wet....I'll remember to give it more dry time next time I need to do this. Wish I'd known before I did it....
The issue with fly warmth is that the cathode current is on the low end of the range. I don't think it's exceeding the back of the hand contact rule, but it still bugs me how warm it gets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcanine
I think with the CTC20 it's going to come down to sourcing good replacements for those two transformers... I wish better care had been taken when it was stored disassembled. I like the style, I may wanna buy the set back, so I'd be interested in helping seek the parts.
I'd almost be interested in coming up there and learning from you while you work a little. Learn the basics I'm missing from you, that stumped me so endlessly with the CTC16. How to read and test resistors, check voltages properly, test capacitors.
As for cooling the CTC16's flyback, I was thinking of putting a small, low voltage brushless computer fan on the bottom of the right side of the flybox (Facing it with the back of the set off), blowing in on the transformer, with a vent hole on the top left side to blow the heat out. It would only take a low voltage wall-wart to power a computer fan, which could easily be wired to the TV's cord and switch, so when the set is switched on, the fan powers on. Brushless computer fans are very quiet and move plenty of air. I have several plus several power supplies laying around that'd drive it perfectly.
I'm going out of state in a few days and I'll be gone until December 10th. so while I am gone, feel free to watch and enjoy my CTC16 all you like. Besides the warm flyback, I would certainly call it done.
Windows 10 sucks so far. If you want Windows 7 I have an unlocked installer that I can give you that updates it self and is fully featured. I'm giving you a pretty high end business grade dell laptop as a bonus for all the work you did on the CTC16. it'll have Windows 7 Professional installed on it and I'll include a DVD of the reinstall stuff for you.
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If you want to buy the 20 back from me later I'd be open to that. If you want to come over and work on stuff with me some time I'm cool with that.
It did not look like there is a enough clearance between the side of the cabinet and the side of the HV box for a fan, but I can recheck. A separate PS is not really necessary. It's fairly easy to rectify the set's heater line, add a filter cap so the fan sees clean enough DC, and a small user fan switch in a discreet place.
The laptop sounds awesome!
I have my own windows 7 install disc that I've used with several machines. The 10 installation was a free upgrade from 7 on my school machine, and most of the time spent was preparing the Win 7 OS for a drive image backup (closing/saving the mountain of open stuff that being on for a few weeks-months straight accumulates, moving files to external drive to shrink the size of the backup image, defragmentation, run anti-virus, etc.). With the drive image backup I can go back to Win 7 anytime, or throw the image on another drive and go between them by drive swapping.
I like Win 10 so far. The back end is better programmed and it runs better/faster on my laptop than 7 did. There are a couple of things about the look of the taskbar I dislike, but I'll fix or get over them. I also hate the change in mouse commands for photo viewer (makes reading Manga a PITA), but there should be ways around that.
BTW: I got that little Admiral going last night. It was the ion trap that was extinguishing raster. It has a funky intermittent in the tuner (I believe) that kills all reception, but it can be persuaded to work. I recapped the IF board since that was easy with the back off. It is rather dim yet so I plan to test the CRT.
