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I use a different technique. First, all of my DCD/BluRay players deface stopped videos with messages on the screen, so I don't do that. I either use a tripod
and OTA broadcasts with a 1/20 or 1/10 sec shutter (and try for no motion) or just play still pictures which are jpgs using my BlyuRay player. I know what
size to make them (485x720 or multiples of that) so that the player correctly matches the picture to its digitized NTSC scanning.
I use either a Canon 30F or 7D. I always use manual settings except
color balance, which it gets right for some reason.
This alone is sufficient for B&W TVs. The problem is color dots. There are
two ways to handle this. One is to use a tripod and carefully defocus the image so that there is no moire. This is easiest by far on the 7D or any camera which has a live view screen with blow-up to pixel level. The other is to carefully focus so all the spots are just barely blurred but not so that
they are blurred outside their own triangle. Then you do the rest of the
blurring in Photoshop (Gaussian Blur). There is a real problem with this method: cameras have a tendency to overexpose the spots, especially red.
I have to check each time I set up (but not each picture) with the in-camera Histogram. And when I "develop" the raw files in Photoshop, I have to be careful that the conversion of raw to plain RGB format does not also overload some pixels (i.e. reduce exposure when "developing".) With this method after blurring the picture is dim, but that's easy to fix with "levels".
With test photos in color, I always use the USB key method. I take the picture, and then when I "develop" them, I always have the same picture
on the TV when I do the developing. I match the image on my screen
so that it EXACTLY matches the TV, in hue, saturation and contrast.
This way, ANYBODY can tell what the TV looks like by comparing the original jpeg and the picture off the TV on their computer. Any differences between their computer monitor and mine cancel!
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