[Crist Rigott]

The width being too wide is the only "problem" I have left. The picture is very watchable and the too wide picture is more of a preference than a problem.

With that said, I'd like to list the errors etc found when building the kit. Overall when following the 6 Instruction Sheets step-by-step will give a working TV.

1) Yoke brown and red numbers doesn't match between the schematic and the yoke plug drawing on Instruction Sheet 6. I corrected the numbers on the schematic.

2) On the schematic, C43A shows a chassis ground. Should be shown as going to B-.

3) On the schematic, R61 a 220K resistor should be labeled R61C.

4) On the schematic, C15A 470pf cap should be labeled C15.

5) On the assembled RF Strip, R33 and R34 are 12K. The schematic, parts list, and Instruction Sheet IF Strip lists them as being 15K. When I was replacing all the resistors, I used 15K.

6) The shielded cable shown on Instruction Sheet 1 has red and black. The cable supplied with the kit, the colors are orange and yellow.

7) On Instruction Sheet 3, R80 should be drawn going all the way to V6-3.

8) Parts List and IF Strip Instruction Sheet missing the 68pf cap across L8.

9) I rotated TB20 90 degrees due to the close proximity to C43.

10) T5 on Instruction Sheet 5 didn't match the physical T5. I removed the can and rotated it to match the Instruction Sheet.

11) On the schematic, C42 in the yoke, is listed as 51pf. The parts lists it as 47pf. A 52pf cap was installed.

12) I installed a 10 Ohm 25 watt chassis mount resistor in the filament string due to my voltage being 124Vac.

13) I replaced the selenium rectifier with a 1N4007 diode.

14) I replaced R69 a 5 Ohm 5 watt resistor with a 15 Ohm 50 Watt chassis mount resistor.

15) I added a 220uf 250V E-Cap to each C44A and C44B. Each now are rated at 440uf 250 volts. This might not have been needed, but it did seem to stabilize the picture a bit more.

16) I'm using a new rebuilt 21FP4C CRT that is aluminized with a straight gun. No ION trap is used.

17) I'm using a polarized line cord without an interlock. The "Hot" side goes to the fuse.

18) I replaced the HV lead with a 20Kv wire and modern boot.

19) I replaced the 25CD6 tube with a 25DN6. This gave me at least 1Kv more HV.

I plan to install a CL-90 thermister to prevent surges to the filament string during turn-on.