[Dubis7]

Chassis number is KCS152C. I'm including the SAMS schematic for reference.

I did a little more poking around, ran the same test with the anode lead disconnected from the CRT and received no spark from the end of the lead when I touched a screwdriver to it. Considering I already noticed that the continuity check on my multimeter seemed to go in and out on that wire, I'm leaning towards replacing it as my next step. I'll also go ahead and ohm out the resistor with the HV rectifier tube out to verify that it's good, but from what I saw in the wiring I believe my reading should be accurate.

This is not a solid state set, so fingers crossed that the lead is just a wire. No evidence on the schematic from what I see.

I would be surprised if the CRT was bad. It was perfectly bright just a few months ago, so to go from normal to no picture that quickly without something catastrophic happening would be bizarre. I'm no expert, though.