[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Dubis7

Okay, here's a copy of the schematic.

Also, this slipped my mind, but I did notice one of the leads to the electrolytic can was broken off when I was removing it. I've fixed it, and didn't consider it worth noting since I was planning to move it to a terminal strip anyway, but if memory serves it was the positive lead to the triangle symbol. Either that or the semicircle. Either way, Unless the symptoms persist once I get a picture, I'm tempted to chalk at least part of the "percussive maintenance" response to that lead being broken or almost broken.

Does anyone have any recommendations for what kind of wire I should get to replace the anode? Are CRT anode leads still sold, and will a standard piece fit most CRT sockets?

Also, I was a little confused on some of the information regarding my 1G3GT HV rectifier. If I'm understanding it correctly, that tube is not part of the series filament string, and is powered directly by the flyback transformer. I verified that my old 1G3GT was bad by testing for continuity between pins 2 and 7, which I believe is where the filament is. Those two points tested no continuity, and further testing on a tube tester also showed no life.

Also, since I'm on the subject, and I apologize for asking these novice questions, what's the standard on numbering tube pins? If I've read correctly, I find the key on the center post, or gap on a miniature type tube, and count clockwise from there. Am I doing that right?

If everything I'm doing so far checks out, My next step is going to be to test that resistor and, assuming that checks good, verify that there is an intermittent break in the anode lead.

There's probably nothing wrong with the anode lead. The schematic shows a 1000 ohm resister in the HV rectifier socket, check that.