I wonder how that set found its way across The Pond. It dates from 1951 and the original CRT would have been a Mullard MW31-16. Data here:
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/f.../m/MW31-16.pdf The repalcement seems to be a MW31-74:
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/f.../m/MW31-74.pdf The 200mA heater is almost certainly a mistake on the label. But please run the heater up carefully from a bench supply and measure what it takes at 6.3V. If it really is 200mA you'll need a bypass resistor, nominally 63R, to take the remaining 100mA.
You can download the original Pye service data from Jon's invaluable site. The download process is a bit clunky but not difficult. The quality of the scan is excellent. Pye manuals are good, probably rather better than the 3rd party one linked in a previous post.
http://www.thevalvepage.com/tvmanu/pye/body_pye.htm
The valve (tube) line-up is pretty common for a UK set but will be unfamiliar in the USA.
It won't easily sync to 525 signals. Field scan will be OK but persuading the line scan to go up from 10125Hz to 15734Hz is a big ask. Also the vision modualtion is +ve, sound is AM, spaced 3.5MHz from vision.
Once you have got the CRT to light up, the easiest way to get a picture is to buy an Aurora converter.
http://www.tech-retro.com/Aurora_Des...Converter.html
The most vulnerable component is the line output transformer ("flyback" in American usage). Before applying power, it's worth running some DC through the EHT winding for a few days to dry it out thoroughly. A few 10s of milliamps is about right. Enough to make the overwind feel gently warm.
PS: This set is live chassis. The metalwork is conencted to one side of the mains (line). When working on the set the chassis should be conencted to neutral (cold). Don't trust the set's power switch to break both poles of the mains. Been there, got the shock from a set that was "off". If you're using a US 240V supply I think that both sides are live (hot). Not recommended while working on the set. If you're connecting testgear such as a 'scope then you must use an isolating transformer, not an autotransformer. If you're running direct from 240V or using an autotransformer to step up the voltage an RCD (GFI) is a very wise precaution.