Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
I remember when I started restoring color sets with my CTC15 and hit the troubleshooting stage that 3 chassis pulls in a day was a low number.... Tip: there are a couple of screws or holes for them on either side of the power cord interlock , and there should be a matching set of half circles on the tuner/control subchassis. They are for bolting the subchassis to the main chassis to make pulling and installing the chassis for short tests easier.
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https://imgur.com/Txm8oBx
If you look closely at it when I had it on the bench last week, I had the tuner there while I was working on it, till I removed it to hook up the bar-dot input.
Nevermind that I like to add new parts ( caps & such ) with silicone :p as long as it can't be seen from above!
New r106 & c4 ordered , replacing c4 again, as it was not EXACTLY @ 50 uf, but a bit higher, that may or may not also be an issue, this time, getting precisely what it says on SAMs is a replacement , 75-TVA1414-E3.
In no big rush to replace them, so using ultra cheap shipping from Mouser, $3.30 vs $7.50, meaning rather than get it tomorrow, it will be here Sat.
Will stick the back on it for now and wait for another weekend to put them in.
Which does bring up a un-related topic, the 2 metal clips for the back have been missing since forever, what can be used in their place?
