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Chassis or model number is the only positive identifier.... serial is like the vin on a car only there is usually NO information encoded in it. Chassis number is better since it IDs the electronics...makers would offer 1-4 chassis any model year and stick each chassis into a wide variety of cabinets (each cabinet style/color receiving it's own number), and sometimes models got added late in the model year or custom ordered and didn't make the service literature index books.
A picture can sometimes ID a set. If you can get a tube layout there are books that help ID make/model based on tube layout. Take off the back and look for a tube layout inside and at any numbers ink stamped on the back of the chassis you may find chassis or model number on it.
Before you invest money in replacing all the electrolytic and paper caps (which you need to do if you plan to run it for more than a minute) first find a CRT tester and make sure your CRT is good or at the very least has some emission (most testers set the good-bad scale for color CRTs which need more emission to get a picture)...A replacement CRT could set you back more than the set is worth. If it is initially a dead CRT give it an hour to sit running on the tester...CRT cathodes can go to sleep if left dormant for over a year, and when they do they take a bit of time to wake up.
Early post war Admirals into the mid-50s typically make good starter resto TVs (it is good to work on radios and or audio first) and are easy to work on with good performance when restored.
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