Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan
Even if the original resistors in the unit had a tolerance stripe?
I say that because the original resistors appeared to have a tolerance stripe but I couldn't make out the color because the color code stripes were too discolored from heat damage that I couldn't make out the colors they were originally.
Unfortunately the service manual for this unit doesn't list tolerances for the resistors just their resistances and wattages (even though I had seen several resistors in this unit that had 5% tolerance stripes on them.)
Also I do have a box of 150 Ohm 1/2 watt fireproof resistors, would that work in place of the original 100 Ohm 1/3 W resistors if what you say is correct for this situation?
How about the original transistors?
I need to source some replacements but I keep coming up empty handed, as they don't seem to have a modern replacement except through NTE which like I said the suppliers that their website lists that carries their replacements for these transistors are companies I have never heard of before and because of that I don't know if I want to deal with a supplier that I'm not familiar with unless someone here says otherwise.
Unfortunately these transistors don't crossreference to anything that Mouser or Digikey have in their inventory.
I did seem to find a matched set of NOS transistors like the ones I needed (they were the same number as the originals) on ebay for $5 plus $3 shipping, should I try those and see if those would work?
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Tolerance applies ONLY to RESISTANCE and NOT to power rating.
If all the other resistors are 5% then the ones you need are probably 5% (especially if they are the same make and construction as the rest) go with something between 5% and 1% tolerance and you should be fine.
150 ohm resistors are not a valid sub for 100 ohm.
There was much less variety in power transistors in the 60's and 70's if it had enough power and was linear it could be used in an amp, linear devices can also be used for switching (horizontal output duty)....If it had the stones and the price point for the job it would get selected....the tube equivalent is that the 6L6 and 6BQ6 are the same tube only the BQ moved the plate connection to the top cap to avoid Corona and arcing issues with the plate pin on the L6....The L6 was common in audio amps and the BQ was common in horizontal circuits (though it also got used in audio occasionally).