[Electronic M]

You should not remove the fuses from your multimeter. The fuse in series I mentioned in my last post was a fuse in the TV shown as M8 on the schematic you posted. I was suggesting measuring resistance between terminals 1 and 3 on the flyback... checking resistance between those pins and terminal 2 is also not a bad idea since it will tell you which half of the winding has the most resistance.

The flyback is probably fine if you are able to draw a 1/4"+ arc off the top connector of the 1B3. You should also be able to draw the same arc off of the CRT end of the 1M R101...If not the resistor has opened (not uncommon) or there is a problem with the doorknob capacitor C88 (they can intermittently short under voltage), the 1B3 or it's heater supply (R100 can open).

If you have healthy arc at the CRT HV connection adjust the ion trap (rotate it 360 degrees and slide it fore and aft of it's current position while watching the screen for light...once it lights adjust it for brightest light) on the CRT neck in a dimly lit room with brightness set to max and contrast at 50% rotation. If adjusting the ion trap doesn't give you light check the CRT grid and cathode voltages (it may be useful to rotate brightness and contrast and give min and Max voltages varying those controls create) against those listed in the schematic and post schematic vs measured.

By the way have you replaced the electrolytic and paper dielectric capacitors yet? Running the set on original capacitors is dangerous to the other components.