Quote:
Originally Posted by stushug
Here's the grid with blue lens covered, and the convergence setup page from the manual. It's not that clear, I hope you can see how the red drifts off in the bottom right corner. I can't upload the manual, it's twice the size of the allowed size, but I could email it to you.
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First, those transistors do run at different temperatures. The drivers for the green run cooler than the others because there is less inherent error to correct.
I would take a close look at the bottom of all the transistors on heat sinks and check for uncracked solder. If there is some, a bit of liquid flux and heat will reflow them nicely.
If your blue convergence shows similar convergence to the red, you're very close (and better than the old timer..)
This board has limited adjustments, so you won't get perfection out of it. A lot of boards of that era have twice the adjustments, so it's possible to get a really good convergence even at the far corners.
With regards to the red, see if there is a red horiz bow adjustment. If there is, adjust it so the red fringe is the same distance away from the green from top to bottom. After that, adjust the red horiz width and linearity to pull the red in. If it doesn't have red horiz bow, just adjust the red horiz lin and red horiz width to tuck in the red in the middle. The top and bottom corners won't be perfect, but it's the best we can do with what adjustments we have.
Can you take a pic of the controls or send just the part of the manual that shows the conv board? Email is
[email protected]
John