Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
Not really...The 21FBP22 had a safety glass by design, but it wasn't glued to the screen. The safety glass on a FBP is held on by the front fingers of the mounting band and a rubber gasket around the perimeter.
Really it's a still 21FJP22 just without a safety glass.
I've done a few 21FJP to FBP conversions and I always reinstall a safety glass...but not always the one it came with...
I feel your pain. The majority of RCA cataract removals I've done ended up like that...It sucks having broken glass and in my case having to come up with replacement safety glass (though the first couple of times I was lucky enough to have dud CRTs to pirate from).
Did this happen from a slip up with the water method?
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Yes, I was removing some of the white gunky stuff from around the edges with spudger tool Friday, I got a lot out, and I stuck 4 of them across from each other between the safety glass and tube in order to open the gap a bit more, I could see the gap flexing as I did, but as it was being out back into the water, one spudger bumped the edge of the tube and the safety glass cracked.
Sucks, but no REAL big deal, was able to get the rest off w/o too much trouble, and as I have nothing to replace it with, and am very unlikely to ever get one, I put it in as-is.
Looks pretty OK.
Right now, I'm more zeroed in on the HV problem, why I can't get it to 24kv like it should be, if I try, focus goes to hell, which MAY be because the CRT socket is crappy, and all carbon arced around the pin for focus, AND/OR as mentioned the HOT/HV rect tubes are all old, new socket and tubes ordered.
Am also seeing symptoms of bad caps in the Y amps, the level of red is jumping all over the place, just like blue was before I replaced them in my CTC-16