Finally had a chance to check out the boards. The main board 9-959 seems flawless. Caps look perfect, solder joints look perfect. Nice and clean. This is the board I changed 15+ years ago from Tri-State Module.
The Sweep board, which seems to also be the power supply 9-754, had one cap that had some brown under it. Not goopy just like thin paint ... I actually wondered if it was from an old repair that wasn't cleaned correctly (this board was exchanged years ago either under warranty or a paid repair). It cleaned right off and the brown didn't actually "touch" the capacitor, but it was there.
Taking the board fully out to get a closer look, I found a totally different area that looked awful. Like a really bad repair from a previous time (probably the board was a repaired exchange). Slightly bulging caps, corrosion on the board traces, odd solder joints. Looks kind of like it overheated a little (though not discolored and not melted, just "wrong")... I can send a photo if anyone cares. Other than the bad caps, this area is a connection that connects to the main board, so I assume it is the low-voltage power supply. The corrosion may or may not have shorted the circuit between traces; I didn't test before cleaning a bit.
Now my decision ... repair, or replace? I am not sure if they have them in stock truly, but an online place says they have new old stock boards and this one would cost $130 plus shipping. So do I challenge myself and repair it for basically peanuts, or do I go all out and spend $150 or so on a TV that probably isn't worth repairing but might be fun to have around a little longer? Assuming that this is the bad board (I guess I could replace both ...)
Either way (repair or replace) I need to ask a really stupid question ... the anode wire - does it just pull off once the suction releases it, or does it have an internal solid connection? I ask because I pulled it off and didn't realize I may be damaging something. Inside I didn't see anything but (I assume) glass. I also didn't realize I am supposed to ground it first but it apparently had no energy inside because I'm still alive and there was no spark or shock...
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno
Bad news is I dont have the Sams for it. Maybe someone else
has it.
While you have the boards out look over the electrolytic caps.
Look for swelling, discoloring & puss leaking out the top or bottom.
Cold joints & 'lytic caps probably account for 70% of failures on
sets from the late 70's on so keep that in mind. Funny thing is they
almost always are in the same places & across all brands. The engineers
could have easily & cheaply cured most of them. But I dont complain.
They paid for my house, kids collage & kept beer in the fridge !
Mostly T-bone steaks & not much pasta.......
73 Zeno 
LFOD ! |