Quote:
Originally Posted by maxhifi
Are you trying to watch TV up close in a fully dark room? The average CRT television was designed to be watched in a room with normal ambient lighting, and from a distance.
If you want to "make it less bright", you will need to turn down the brightness, and then adjust contrast to make the picture look good. These two controls have some interaction, so it may take some fiddling to get it right. If the color is too strong, then turn the color down too.
TVs were always set by default to maximum brightness and contrast, to stand out in stores. I always dial mine down to reduce the wear and tear on the CRT, and to make the picture look better.
Am I getting the impression you didn't grow up with CRT televisions? These controls are all second nature to those who did, but I could see them being confusing to those who didn't. I suggest to just keep playing with them until the picture looks good. One tip is to turn the color down all the way to get a monochrome picture, and then set the contrast and brightness. Once you have done this, slowly increase the color until it looks realistic. You will find it will be set WAY lower than the over saturated look which most TVs have.
Also, don't expect digital quality black levels with an old TV. Black is always going to be a little murky, it's better to not obsess over it.
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I am well versed in CRT/TV calibration. I grew up with CRTs and used only CRTs for the first 23 years of my life; I'm 35. I'm very familiar with what each picture control does, proper calibration techniques, and what a balanced image looks like on a properly functioning CRT. I use an app for the Nintendo Wii called Artemio's 240p Suite that has all kinds of test patterns for adjusting contrast, brightness, color, tint, screen geometry, etc. I watch my CRTs in a medium lit room and I have calibrated all of the picture settings using the test patterns and I have used this process on dozens of CRTs. I have also experimented with turning down the screen (G2) knob on the flyback transformer but it didn't make a difference. I also use blue gel filter glasses for calibrating color and tint.
So, I've done all of the calibration that I can possibly do and I suspect that there is something going on in my sets that is causing the voltage to be higher than it should be which is causing the brighter colors to be brighter than they should be. I do know that this can be caused by things such as bad components on the neckboard such as a bad transistor, diode, resistor or possible even a short in the tube itself or a bad flyback.