Quote:
Originally Posted by joe111671
I looked in the cage, and nothing looks out of the ordinary, other than possibly that blob of silicone or whatever on the top right. Also the dust inside has a metallic, shiny glimmer to it. Not sure if that's normal. I'll search for a replacement stick and change it. In the meantime, I'll try and find homes for those new caps.
John, when you said remove the socket, it went right over my head  . I was planning on putting my ear close to the socket while it was plugged in and the set was on. |
The good news is that the flyback phenolic board looks like it's in excellent shape. But look closely at it, particularly when it's running in a dark room. I remember one I had many years ago that was arcing *between* the layer of phenolic, not on the surface which is where that normally happens. I used a Dremel and cut into the pheloic to remove the underground river of carbon and layered in some RTV. Also check for internal arcing at the focus pot with the lights out.
As far as the CRT socket, what I meant is to pull the CRT socket off the back of the tube. If there's any internal arcing, it might be easier to hear it from the pin side of the socket because of all the holes, although if the arcing is severe, you might be able to hear some sizzling when it's actually connected to the tube.
I don't know if you have a HV probe, but the easiest way to find this is to check the focus voltage at the flyback where the black lead attaches to the 4.7M resistor (should be 4-6KV or so). If it starts high when the TV is in focus and drops off when the pic gets blurry, pull the socket off the back of the tube and see if the voltage comes back up. If it does, there's either a problem inside the tube itself or the plastic pin guide may have carbon tracking on it or *under* it. If the voltage stays down with the socket removed, unsolder the black lead on the 4.7M resistor and see if the voltage stays up. If it does, the socket is bad.
If the voltage only drops when the socket is actually connected to the tube, you might try *carefull* removing the guide pin and looking between the guide and the tube glass. Carefully rock the guide using a thin blade to slide between the guide and glass to cut the RTV that's used to locate the guide to the tube. Fortunately, arcing under the guide pin is very rare. I've only seen four or five in 40 years.
John