So I'm going to move from the "work on it" stage to the "run it a few days to make sure nothing breaks" stage...
Repair since last post basically went, recap power supply to eliminate hum, recap sync to get sync back, then go after everything else to try and make color look right.
After each board or two I did test power-ups.
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It should be noted that all the 3 convergence lytics and the one front most lytic on the luminance board were replaced with Sprague axial lead caps that look the same as the originals (only shinier and a bit smaller). I mostly used radial lead caps to keep the cost of caps down (by more than half) but those 4 caps were values that I couldn't get anything of a close enough value for me to be comfortable with for a better price than the Spragues.
At the end of the recap it became apparent there was hardly any red in the picture. Trying to do a grayscale setup showed me that the red G2/screen control wasn't doing anything. Voltage checks confirmed the ~500VDC that should have been on the red G2 was down under 100. After a bunch of tracing I finally guessed that the red G2 kill switch was dragging the voltage down. It tested fine on my DMM so all I can figure is that it's insulation was failing at 500V. The B/W-Color Switch was an identical part and has less than 15V on it. So I swapped the 2 switches. The switch that breaks down at voltages over 100V shouldn't affect the low voltage B/W-color circuit....It should be reliable and not change the cosmetics of the control panel. Its a repair you'd probably never know about if I didn't tell you.
Since then color has been good and I have adjusted the H Lin/Efficiency coil for min H output cathode current (it dipped to 210mA which is better than my CYB21 roundy), adjusted the HV and B+ regulators, and dialed in sweep and convergence to the extent it's worth doing prior to it being moved over 6 hours drive away.
It looks excellent in person. I wish my phone could capture it better.
note: the black lines at the left of the blank raster pics above are not a problem with the monitor but rather a result of antenna placement from my use of a VCR tuned to an agile modulator transmitting a test pattern from another room (sometimes life is easier if you just transmit a signal instead of moving devices or stringing 50' of wire to get it where you want it).
One thing you may want to get is the key for the control doors...My CYB21 has it's key so on a hunch I tried it's key on your monitor and it worked...I think it's a standard cut key the way some elevator emergency keys and some fleet vehicle keys are standard cuts. You should be able to order a Chicago Lock Co. H1768 and get a key that works the locks of your Conrac.
And here's a bit of the James Bond film Dr. No. fed directly into the monitor from a JVC professional S-VHS-ET deck.
As a final aside I discovered I own a broken broadcast spec color bar generator that uses the same funky power cord connector. I'm going to try and fix that generator. If I can't fix the generator then I'll be willing to sell you the cord from it since you need a cord for this.