Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan
Well either way I'm not getting any audio out of the TV and I'm still not getting the 200+ volts I need to be getting on pins 5 and 6 of the 6AQ5 tube that the Sam's calls out and I'm not getting 17V on pin 2 of the 6AQ5 either, so I'm still stumped as to what's going on with the audio section of this TV, and I've still got no signal from the tuner to the TV on here either.
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Reread post #245 where you had 210v at C3B. You need to follow that point to pins 5 and 6 of your 6AQ5 and see where you loose the 210V. Follow the schematic and ohm everything out. One path is from C3B positive to pin 6(screen), the other is C3B positive to the bottom(red) wire of the output transformer primary. B+ needs to go in on the red wire of the primary winding and exit on the blue wire to pin 5(plate) of the 6AQ5. If there's no connections where there should be, something has become open or otherwise mis-wired.
Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88
OK. That's close enough for now. At least you've verified B+ on C3b.
The identical voltage should be appearing on pin 6 (screen grid) of the 5AQ5, and on the bottom of the output xfmr primary (red lead).
In other words, there should be solid continuity (zero ohms) twixt all those points. (Forget the negative voltage issue for now) Main thing is to find out what connection's gone open.
With the set OFF, and an ohmmeter set to RX1, connect the black lead to pin 6. With the other lead, check for zero ohms to bottom of xfmr primary (red lead), and to C3b. You'll probably find the connection to C3b is what's open.
BTW, also check the xfmr primary for a few hundred ohms between pins 6 and 5 (plate) of the 5AQ5.
Once this is all sorted out, check for solid continuity (zero ohms) from C3's can to ground. Any resistance here could be contributing to the 'negative voltage' condition.
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[Edit] Here's a picture of the bottom side of my working chassis showing the 5AQ5(6AQ5) connections so you can compare your wiring.
