Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn
Thanks. I actually removed these and used my band saw. Then a few passes over 220 grit on a flat surface squares the end. Seems like a lot of work, but by using a very large (radiator sized  ) soldering iron I'm able to heat the ground lugs and squeeze them straight with a flat nose pliers, then carefully wiggle them free. Space permitting you certainly could hack them off using a Zona saw while they're still attached to a chassis. |
OK, so I looked over my chassis after you mentioned the missing wire and sure enough, I'm not sure how I missed it but I forgot to put that wire back in when I removed it from the old can cap to install the new one, I now have the voltages back in the audio section, and its functioning as it should.
But now I have a new problem, one of my Video IF tubes was bad (which is why I'm not getting anything from the tuner) which is a 3CB6 and I tried subbing in a 6CB6 (because I have a whole butt load of them) and it seems the TV doesn't like them, because they just glow white and then just die after 3 seconds (and it doesn't matter which 3CB6 socket its stuck in, it does the same thing in all 3 sockets) and I was hoping I could get away with not having to order a new tube for the TV (as I don't have any 3CB6 tubes in my stash.)
Is it normal for a 6.3V Tube to glow white hot and then burn out after 3 seconds in a socket originally meant for a 3V tube in a series string set?
I was thinking that it was possible to install a higher voltage tube in a lower voltage tube spot in series string radios and TVs (like how you can sub in place of a 35L6 a 50L6 on old Series string radios and it would run fine.)
Am I missing something here?
