Over time with using it with the G1 at 0V the wiggliness has almost disappeared, so I'm not terribly worried about it anymore.
I have noticed with this set that the image seems to get a little brighter on the right side of the screen, so I decided to investigate the power supply for the RGB output transistors. I noticed that the 162VDC supply was coming in a little bit low, and with a little bit more of an AC component than I expected to see. I also scoped the derived 130VDC supply and found that it was around 125V
The OG diode was a HF-1Z with an epoxy blob on the back, so I swapped it for a 1N4937 and now the voltages are closer to what they should be. I see the 130V at around 128-129, and the 162 is about 160. The AC component is halved.
This got me thinking if maybe there was something I could do to improve the performance of the output transistors on the neck board.
I wonder if swapping the 2SC1127 transistors out for something more modern, or with higher gain would improve things at all, especially since pegging the G1 to zero volts required that I raise the G2 to compensate a bit?
I know it's got to at least be able to handle the conditions of the original component, but I'm wondering which characteristics I need to pay most attention to in order to tune the circuit in a beneficial way?
The 2SC1127 has an hFE of 1000, so would I be looking for something that was just a bit higher or something?
Also was looking again at the focus voltage now that I've done the G1 mod and I realized that it's actually having an effect to use a potentiometer on the focus. Only issue is that it's loading down the G2 voltage and making me turn up the G2 close to it's limit. I think I can prevent this with another resistor or something, but I'm not sure how big it would need to be.