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Besides those ceramic resistors (tracing out where they go on the schematic is necessary for full understand) everything else looks like standard electrolytic replacement... Maybe not the cleanest workmanship, but not necessarily a problem either.
For a long time nobody made FP twist lock style electrolytics so the only option was modern individual caps mounted like that, to an add on terminal strip, or to the circuit board (there's actually some good empty spots on the circuit boards for some of the lytics.
There is a company that makes reproduction can lytics but they're several times more expensive than replacing with individual modern lytics so few are OCD enough to spend the cash.
These sets aren't terrible to work on if you can figure out access. Most caps you can get at through chassis holes under the PCB, if that isn't good enough you can unscrew a couple of the transformers and a couple of the wires with the least slack and hinge the board up to improve the poor access.
All the paper dielectric caps (including the ones hiding in plastic shells) need to go, the couplates probably need to be replaced (I've gotten away with keeping them in most of my predictas), change off tolerance resistors, and keep in mind the circuit board mounted miniature tube sockets suck ....they will go open with too many in and out cycles so unless you want to change them try to only have any tube out once for a test.
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