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So I did the self diagnostic procedure and I got - code 12 engine RPM out of spec, and code 32 EGR valve position sensor shorted, open, or out of range.
I pulled the EGR valve and it wouldn't hold vacuum, but it wasn't stuck. I read that some of them won't hold vacuum unless there is pressure already coming in from the exhaust side, but didn't know if this was one of those or not so I replaced it anyway. (When I got my new valve it didn't hold vacuum either, so the old one might have been good.)
I checked the sensor with an ohm meter (it has 3 connections, and I don't know why 3 and not 2?), but I could see the resistance going up and down as I pushed it in and out.) But I replaced the sensor too.
And it's running way better. I need to drive it around to be sure, but I think that might have been it.
I removed the battery tray so I could trace some wires, so the battery is just sitting in there loose, and so is the radiator (for the same reason), so I have to put some stuff back together before I can drive it around.
When I removed the EGR valve I broke one of these hard plastic vacuum lines, and I noticed break in another one of those lines too. I repaired them by slipping heat shrink over the line and holding the two sides of the broken plastic line right next to each other before I heated it up, so there wasn't really any portion of vacuum line that was only made of heat shrink, but still I don't think those repairs will hold up, is there a better option?
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