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I agree the labeling is confusing. It's a British cap design (Don't think I've owned any British made electronics)so it's different than an American can.
The 50V caps positive most likely goes to the cathode of the audio output or vertical output tube and would be in parallel with a resistor going to ground. You can probably identify it that way...If that doesn't help you might want to get a 22uF cap with the same voltage rating as the 10uF caps have (that way it you mix them up they won't explode...most sets won't be bothered by that much capacitance difference, and you can always use a replacement with a higher voltage rating than the original.
One other way you can possibly identify which is which is if the set will still run on the old cap measure the voltages on the terminals with the set running....one should be under 50v the rest should be significantly higher.
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