Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
My preferred method is to cut the top of the can off and after restuff slip a cardboard can insulator sleeve (remove and reuse the original if there is one) over to hide the missing top. Much more serviceable and original looking than a straight rebuild or the adapt a cap.... I'm probably never going to use an adapt a cap in my work because for cheaper I can solder a period correct looking terminal strips underneath to hook the new caps to and then only have the underside of the chassis (which, let's face it, nobody sees) look unoriginal. The adapt a caps make the bottom AND TOP of the chassis look unoriginal and to me the top of the chassis is the most important part to keep looking original as it will be seen periodically.
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Thanks Tom C.! I don’t think I can use the adapt-a-caps on two of the cans. They have no phenolic insulators and are affixed to the chassis by the four twist lock tabs, one of which is soldered to the chassis. I would have to drill two holes to mount them, even then the chassis cut out is not round but a smaller square shape with corners rounded which could present problems.