Quote:
Originally Posted by vol.2
You might want to do a quick check on the resistors while you are at it.
Generally speaking, the resistors should be their value or lower when in circuit because any additional paths that they might follow in parallel to their position in the circuit will only bring the total resistance down, not up.
So if you check a resistor and it is either open or it's resistance is higher than the value on the case, you should remove one leg from the circuit and give it a real test.
It's also a good idea to (if possible) identify places in the circuit where there should be ground (zero volts) and a power rail, and make sure those places are not a short.
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I can do that.
Any idea which board could alter tint? I see it on the schematic at the subcarrier and going to the chroma. Is it the subcarrier altering or is the chroma also able to alter it if something is wrong on the board?
I think I'm also going to pull each board, deoxit all the contacts on chassis and boards. I also noticed that when I look at pics of the chassis when I first got it, each board had 2 blue tubes on unused pins. No doubt used to secure the boards, but are these a real necessity or more for shipping? I really can't remember where I put them as I didn't put them back on the modules.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL
Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
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