[TinCanAlley]

Originally Posted by BeamT

+1 old_tv_nut, duplicate what was there as much as possible.

Stay on the track you are working, finish, and then move forward.

and I remember. Alternative Ways of Adjusting G2, is only 4 threads away. IMO you never fully explored that issue. ElectronicM gave you excellent advice and recommended looking at the voltages associated with the CRT. You looked at a lot of things but it appears you never returned to that. The CRT and Video Outputs are supplied by the 3 boost sources that are Horiz derived. The TV needs to produce 3 pictures, a red one, a blue one, and a green one, of equal intensity dark to light (gray scale -tracking) on top of each other (convergence). Thats why in the immortal words of Zeno, start with a good black and white picture.

I concede that a really tired/weak CRT might not be capable of producing one or more RGB setup lines but from the brief pictures you have posted, your CRT actually looks really good. Did you ever test the CRT?

ElectronicM has also chimed in with soldering advice, I think in more than one of your threads. Do you think you have enough wattage in your soldering devices? You should be able to pull component leads from the solder cones (pots), and re-insert leads to the depth of the cone. I use a Weller gun. If I did this more often, I would use the higher wattage iron that he uses.

I figured that since I'm replacing the C202 and 204, and they are connected to the setup side of the setup switch, it might help with that issue.

In the past, I tested all those voltages and they all were good. Since I haven't had any new issues that might point there, I haven't checked them again, but I can once it's back together.

The CRT is good. I've tested it a couple of times and each time it tests good and strong on all 3 guns.

My iron is 200W, but I might need to put the largest chisel tip on it for maximum heat transfer. Should I be concentrating the heat on the tip of the bucket, or the side? I think the side give more contact surface, now that I'm thinking about it.

I think for the setup switch issue, I might bypass it for testing. I've cleaned it a number of times, but it might be extremely dirty, or damaged. What I want to do is put it in setup and jumper the connections on the back side of the switch. That should determine if the switch is good or bad. The other area I need to look into is are the Chroma Gain Taps. I accidentally found out that while in setup I couldn't get a red line adjusting the G2 control, but I could by pulling the lead off the tap. I realized I had the tap on low when it should have been on Hi, so I pulled it to move it and a red line appeared. When I moved to Hi, the line went away. I tested the resistors in that network, but nothing stood out. I tried deciphering the schematic for that section, but I'm not sure what I was seeing.