[TinCanAlley]

Originally Posted by vol.2

I don't think that replacing parts will get rid of the jailbars. I don't think it would in general

The way I understand it, jailbars can end up in older TVs because the manufacturing tolerances are much better now and newer parts are so good that they show the bars. The bars were always there, but the older parts had added impedance or more efficient transistor junctions, and thus do not inhibit them.

Finding the source of jailbars, as I understand it, it usually a process of putting blocking capacitors in different places to see if they change, or placing magnetic shielding around reactive components

Perhaps I'm mistaken though. There's a lot of older, more experienced people on the forum who would have a more reliable opinion

I was hopeful, but didn't get my hopes up. I read a few sites where someone fixed their jailbars by cleaning their CRT socket and replacing the tripler. It was the same chassis as mine. Also read where someone replaced their tripler and got jailbars. They went back to original and they were gone.

For the life of me I can't remember if the set had jailbars when I first got it. I remember it was in bad shape, calibration wise and I was told that before I do anything I needed to replace all the safety caps and then the electrolytics. If the jailbars were there to begin with, they might have been masked by all the bad calibration settings.

I've been watching a youtube channel where they show the results of tantalum caps across zener diodes and uses a device to "listen" to the noise from the diode before and after. They also show using other capacitors across other diodes. Doubt that's where my issue is, but interesting learning about controlling noise in circuits. I thinking that my issue might be with a decoupling cap. I've noted a couple on the schematics that are in the boost (750V and 240V). I figure I can note the solder pot from pics and then mark their topside connection and try adding another bypass cap and note the affect, if any, on the bars.

I going to make an uneducated guess here and say the new tripler has had some impact on HV. My static convergence was off after the swap. I had to readjust it and then a small dynamic adjustment. It's back to what it was, if not slightly better.

I'm going to pause my work on this set and move on to a 13" Hitachi that I'm using as my monitor for a TI-99/4A computer. Believe it or not, but it also has jailbars on the left side of the screen. I order new capacitors and am going to test the CRT. Beyond that, it isn't worth putting money into. Following that, I have a B&W RCA from '75. It blew the fuse a few years ago, but not since. I'm assuming the old fuse was tired. I figure I'll hook it up and let it run for a while and see if it acts up.