[Adam]

I've taken a better look at this tv. The modified power supply basically consists of adding an isolation transformer, 2 new silicon diodes, a 100 ohm choke coil, and two filament transformers, 6 volts and 24 volts (no 12 volt!). But the tubes are not connected in parallel to them, mostly they are still connected in their original series circuits, with the transformers connecting to the series circuits in some way I can't really make sense of.
When I went to measure the filament voltages I didn't measure them according to the voltage readings given on the sams, measuring from one side or the other to ground, as this depended on all the tubes being in series, in a sense measuring how much voltage was left over at any point in the circuit. As all the tubes were no longer in series, I didn't think this measurement would tell me anything, so I put my volt meter across the heater of each tube and measured AC volts, assuming that if the correct amount of voltage was getting to the tube, however it was doing it, a 6v tube should read 6v, a 12v tube should read 12v, ...
The 25L6 HV osc. does get the 24 volts, and somehow the 12SN7's in the sweep circuits are reading 10volts. But the RF/IF poritions of the set still have the tubes connected in series, measuring as I did before they all read between 5 and 6 volts, including the 12AT7 (V2) oscillator/converter. At the moment I am assuming this to be the source of my troubles.
All the resistance measurements at V1, V2 are more or less good. But the voltage measurements are way off.
V1 =
pin1. 0 instead of -.1,
2. 1.5 instead of .5,
5. 160 instead of 90,
6. 160 instead of 90.
V2 =
pin1. 260 instead of 220,
2. 0 for 0,
3. 0 instead of 8 (for the first 30 seconds it reads negative no matter which way I connect the meter)
6. 260 instead of 220
7. -.1 instead of -.2 (for about 30 seconds it fluxuates from a few volts positive to a few volts negative before it settles down)
8. .15 instead of .1

All my measurements were taken without the crt or the speaker connected.
Could the source of all this trouble just be the low filament volatge?
And if so, as most of the original circuits are still in place, I am tempted to just remove the modifications and make a replacement for the ballast tube out of high wattage resistors. What is the general opinion here about this? I am not one of those guys that has to have his tv exactly original, it is more important to me that it works, but in order to continue with the modifications, I would have to find a 12 volt transformer, and remove all the original series circuits which are still about 90% in place. It seems a great deal easier, and more likely to work, if I just took the filament transformers out and went back to a series circuit (which it still has anyway). If I do this how many watts do I need in those resistors? I am assuming that 100 ohm choke coil is standing in place for that 200 ohm resistor from pin 4 to 3 of the ballast tube, should I change this as well, is this better or worse than the resistor? And what about the isolation transformer? Should I remove it, or should I try and work it in somehow?