Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Jonathan
The power switch seems to operate backwards. When I turn it off, the switch is closed according to my meter, and I get .02 ohms, basically a short. When I turn it on, the switch is open according to my meter. I know this sounds like I'm doing somethong wrong. I got it once ot twice to show an open when the switch actually was open and when it was closed it read 40 ohms. I'll give it a spray with some contact cleaner, maybe that might help things.
|
Sounds like you have a special application control for a hi-fi system tone control or such.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Secondly, the excessive current draw. The primary winding reads .6 ohms on my meter, which is the DC resistance it should be according to the service data. When I plugged it into a surge protector, the plug vibrated and the lights dimmed. There is a short somewhere on the secondary side of the transformer. I think I wired the electrolytics wrong, infact I'm almost sure of it. What I'm curious about is why didn't it draw that much current as to pop the breaker? I'm not sure if the surge protector limited the current or it was the limitation of the transformer.
|
Limitation of the transformer. But don't let it go like that for more than a few seconds, or the transformer will burn out. Remember all that Underwriter's Labs cares about is that such a fault inside the set doesn't cause a fire that burns your house down. I would highly recomend that you install on the primary side of the transformer an in-line fuse holder and a fuse of about twice the rated load current (wattage/powerline volts) so you don't ruin the transformer if you still have trouble correcting the problem.