View Single Post
  #3  
Old 03-27-2006, 02:59 PM
blue_lateral's Avatar
blue_lateral blue_lateral is offline
...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 530
There is a 1300 ohm 18w sandbox in my ctc15 clone that is impossible to get, so I have looked into this problem pretty extensively. mine was just too high in value, so in the end I shunted it. Nevertheless, here is what I learned.

The adjustable ones are just exactly how you describe, and there are clips available to mount them. Presumably they could also be post-mounted on the chassis to a screw, just like an old '50's ceramic wirewound. My old resistor was axial, and I didnt want to chassis-mount. Ditto for the aluminum cased ones that require heatsinking. What you are suggesting sounds good as long as the third terminal is there on the Mouser adjustable resistor. Is it?

There are some axial ceramic wirewound resistors in the mouser catalog, and they are much, much smaller than you would expect for the wattage. This is what I would have used if I actually replaced the resistor. It is easy to parallel stuff out of existing 10w values to get 1250ohm (ctc-12) 1300ohm (some clones) and 1400ohm (ctc15, ctc16). These are all 18w resistors.

I don't remember if they come above 10w, If not you might have to use three on one half of the resistor. If this is an old bolt mounted ceramic, I can imagine using the old resistor as a terminal strip, and coming up with a clean, non-invasive repair. The five-watt versions are very very tiny, as I recall they are about like a 1w metal film, bit slightly longer.

Best of luck,

John
Reply With Quote