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Hi, I'm no expert like many on the list, but the first thing I'd do is some gray-scale adjustments to get the color closer to normal.
On the back of the set you should find some adjustments labeled as "screen" and "drive" controls. Screen controls (2) will be labeled blue & green, and drive controls (3) will red, blue & green. On a Zenith, these control pots are made from Red/Green/Blue plastic.. probably the same here.
Adjust the set for normal brightness/contrast. Tint/Color settings are irrelevant without a video signal, but you might as well adjust them to mid-scale. Select a blank channel (so that signals don't affect what shows on the screen). Then reduce all five controls to their minimum settings. This will give you a dark screen.
Starting with the red drive control, increase the adjustment until you get a raster made from of red, of acceptable brightness. Then turn up the green, to get yellow. Finally add blue until the screen looks as close to white as possible.
This is the quick way to balance the output of the three electron guns inside the tube (balanced meaning the ablity to produce white). The challenge becomes the fact that your CRT probably has some miles on it, and not all of the guns will have equal performance. The red gun usually needs to be driven the hardest, as red is the least efficient type of phospher (sp?). This is the reason for the adjustments.
The blue/green screen controls are used as a method of fine-tuning... If you have decent color picture, but flesh tones are too red/green, you can try to cancel them with the screen controls. If you can get a decent white (actully gray) picture using the above method, forget about the screen controls for now and leave them turned down.
BTW, thats a good looking set. You really got lucky to find one that close to working condition in the trash.
Where are you in Michigan?
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