[Jonathan]

John,

Thats actually pretty darn interesting how it works, because I've wondered exactly how, and wondered exactly how you get such an odd waveform that the Sams lists. The way you describe how it operates corresponds to the waveform listed. I checked the old and new electrolytic for as well as both new diodes for polarity and opens/shorts. The capacitors charge like they should and the diodes are fine. Both are connected the way they should be in terms of polarity.

From looking at the schematic, if the B+ is cut in half, then the 270V and 140V used to supply the tuner, audio section, and video IF section. Infact the sound IF is taken from the 3rd video IF. Just by the sound working as well as it did, I really think the voltage doubler is ok. I'll measure the voltage and verify once I get the inrush thermister. I have checked for any B+ shorts and can't find any *crosses finger* (with most of the TVs I've worked on, I've always managed to cause a direct B+ to ground short, notibly the 630TS chassis) so I think I'm on the right track.


And I think I might have a good reason if anything isn't shorted that my chassis vibrates to 60Hz. The epoxy goop leaked out of the power transformer from the chassis being horizontal on top of the cabinet for a few months rather than being vertical when it's installed in the cabinet. A good amount leaked out (most of it, infact) and because there isn't a lot inside the power transformer, I believe the damping effect it had is no more since most of it is gone. I feel it more so than I hear it. I'm not sure what to make of that, but maybe that could be the reason?

Thanks.

Jonathan