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Too far away for TubeJunke at 5 hrs on the road = WAY too far away for me (20 hours?). The green leatherette sounds intriguing, but strikes me as likely an after-the-fact art project. My documents are very thorough thru 1956 or so, nothing mentioned anywhere about leather or vinyl coverings.
The tabletop model in the eBay ad is a 321, same chassis and knobs and CRT as my (and Ralph's) 325. Just a smaller cabinet.
Worst part about my 325 is just that it might be down to that one last mystery, that if I solved it, it would work perfectly. After recapping the electrolytics I checked every plus-side of each with a 'scope against the voltages called for in the Sams sheet, and everything there is in order, with negligible hum. The original owner told me the CRT was good, and had low hours on it, and I'm inclined to agree by the looks of it, but maybe it's not. Full orange-drop replacement of all the paper caps. Also replaced the 20,000-Volt doorknob and the 6000-Volt flyback-to-ground cap. Oh, and 23 NOS vacuum tubes, all tested 100%. In general, taking scope readings at test points all-around seems to result in reasonable readings. No "dead sections" anywhere.
I should say that when you turn it on, nothing happens. It can be left on for hours with no smoke or overheat. The CRT face will raise the hairs on the back of my hand, as if there's hi-Voltage present (I don't have a hi-voltage probe to be 100% certain just how high, but the screen "crackle" seems right). When I shut the set off, I get a white line from 90% left to 90% right, a few inches higher than centered, which shrinks to the known-and-loved white dot which then fades away normally. That's the only indication it's probably a working CRT. The error has to be somewhere else. It's a mystery, and like I said, shelved for awhile 'til I can work up the motivation to dig harder.
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