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Jim,
Several easy things you can start with, among those already mentioned. When you lose the picture, check all of the tubes around the high voltage section (horiz osc, damper, horizontal output, picture tube). Are they all lit?? If so I would take a plastic handled nutdriver and tap the accessable tubes with the plastic handle. Start with a soft tap, then kinda of work your way up in intensity (3 or 4 whaps). Don't be surprised if the damper or horiz output acts like a sparkler!
Passing that stage, turn the chassis upside down and look at the printed circuit board for bad solder joints. Also check the terminal strips for loose connections. Repair as necessary. If you aren't good at soldering, get you a good gun, like a 100 watt Weller and practice, practice, practice!
Some might say "Phil, a 100 watt gun is to hot". Ain't so. You're gonna have to get on and off the joint as quickly as possible. You've gotta have the necessary heat. Period.
Get a "Sams Photofact" for your set(S). It's your roadmap.
As far as checking caps, there are digital multimeters that have this feature. Easy and accurate enough for your needs.
The main tool in repairing these sets is to THINK, THINK, THINK! Kiss it!
Don't let your mind go crazy trying to think of engineering reasons for failure. Use common sense and you'll do fine. The reason I say this is that a lot of books are written by engineers explaining how a set was designed. There are a lot of guys that have the strictly engineering knowledge, which is great. But what you need at this point is practical "check this out" advice. Look for a book that has a lot of pictures. They were written.
Keep us posted
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