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The anode lead itself possibly shorting to the HV cage where it exits? or just open somewhere internally? Use standard precautions to discharge the HV at pin 2 or 7 of V22, or at the flyback secondary. Then test the anode lead for continuity, or short to ground.
Then do a continuity check from pin 3 of V21 to the top cap of V22. Ought to be the 500-600 Ohms of the flyback primary only, and will verify the wiring around it. With V22 removed, make sure there's continuitly in the flyback's secondary (socket pins 2 and 7 ought to be near 0 Ohms).
You should always be able to drag the back of your hand or forearm across the picture tube screen and feel the hairs raise from static electricity. Even if the tube is "dead" from lack of emission.
The blue glow of the HV tube is normal (and quite lovely to look at). It's the easy way to set the horizontal drive control. When the control is set minimum the blue glow will not be there, turn it up just until the blue glow appears, and leave it there. that's what I called "conducting", although there's probably a better term. The go/nogo point is where the blue glow is either present, or not. Oscillator singing will appear at the same time.
The HV Rectifier has a very small, 1-volt filament, under a metal "bell" internally. You can't see it glow, over the other tube light in the set, and even on a tube tester, in pitch black darkness, it's hard to see. If it tests ok. it could be glowing in the set too, and you just can't see it.
Best of luck on the 16KP4.
- Kirk
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