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  #1  
Old 08-28-2013, 10:57 AM
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holmesuser01 holmesuser01 is offline
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Issue with a 27" Sony from 1991

I've got a Trinitron model KV-27TS32 set which I bought new when I worked as a repair tech for the box store that sold it. I got a very good deal on it, being an employee.

New in 1991, it has been repaired twice. The first time was to correct a known power supply problem that was brought up in the detailed printed manual that the box store provided to the techs. My set never failed, but I went ahead and replaced the parts in the kit.

The second time was about 7 years ago. The sides of the picture started pulling in about an inch from time to time with no warning. When I pulled the back of the set, I could not get the picture to pull in, so I decided that it was probably bad soldering. I went over the PCB and soldered everything around the flyback, yoke connectors and plugs, and the horizontal oscillator, including the output transistor, and driver transformer. Put it back together, and it seems to be fixed. It ran for 7 years with no shrinking.

Fast forward to NOW: It's started this same problem again. I've got a parts chassis now that died in 1993, and has all the major parts on it. I won't use the capacitors from the parts chassis in my set, though. They're too old to trust. I've looked over the chassis, and have found no bulging capacitors, and no signs of anything overheating. The only difference this time is now, the picture will pull in with the back off, and moving and flexing the chassis has no effect. The problem is intermittent. Sometimes, it shrinks on start-up, and other times, it can be hours before it shrinks for a moment, and returns to normal.

Other than this issue, the CRT is strong, and it produces an excellent picture. I want to see how long this oldie will keep going.

I have a copy of the service manual, and can't locate the box store book that I had for so long. Have any of you seen something similar to this problem on these sets? I have never touched the set-up menu, other than to reduce the green screen level slightly about 18 years ago. If it no longer looked perfect, I'd dump it/part it out.

I appreciate any insight here.

Last edited by holmesuser01; 08-28-2013 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:33 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Go to the hoz drive transformer (HDT) remove the solder & start
fresh. Go over the rest like you did before. Dont forget to do around
the pin amp & pin transformer. Also any metal rails that act as grounds.
Only width problems I ever had on this vintage Sony was the HDT
& a few pin problems.
If that dont do it post a few chassis photos & one of us can
help you I am sure.

73 Zeno
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2013, 06:31 AM
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holmesuser01 holmesuser01 is offline
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I'll try the re-soldering first. I'll pay attention to the Hz driver transformer. I've seen issues with this transformer many times on non-sony sets.

I've got to get the set down off of a 7 foot tall shelf.


Zeno, the only problems I remember with these sets was the power supply failure problem. I stopped working at the box store when these Sony's were about 3 years old.

I know of several sets like mine around here, and mine is the only one that is still going.

I have not run my set constantly like they did.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:24 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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If its the set I think it is there were 4 caps in the supply that would
crack open, short & blow the 2 converters. Did piles of them.
If you get the bad cons in the drive you will blow the hoz
output sooner than later & it will take the converters & fusable.
Only other thing on them was a few tuners & flybacks.
A very good set all & all.
Good luck with her.

73 Zeno
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2013, 11:26 AM
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holmesuser01 holmesuser01 is offline
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I believe you are right-on with your memory of what happened to these sets.

Yeah, I sure don't want to kill anything. I'll keep the forum informed.
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2013, 08:42 PM
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Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Those sets and the ones with the bad IF solder made us a lot of money in the mid-90s. Here's an excerpt from the repair notes. Zeno is right on - the lytics go bad - C608 is the real baddie.


Cheers,
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USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal)
CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88)
"Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79"

When fuses go to work, they quit!

Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:39 PM.
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