![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Just picked up a CTC-9(F)
Brought this CTC-9 home last night. Really nice condition all around. The CRT has been replaced with a 21FBP and displays a nice bright picture. Does anyone have the service info on this set they could email me? I want to start by replacing the Electrolytics. Someone before me installed a few orange drops and a 1 replacement electrolytic under the chassis. The set has a vertical issue and horizontal sync goes crazy after 10 minutes. I haven't tested the tubes yet, I'll do that today. Is there a way of removing the safety glass from the front of this set? I need to clean behind it and remove a few dead spiders.
Jim
__________________
image.php?u=360&type=sigpic&dateline=1196226370 |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
you suck
![]() That is one of the sets on my list. Yours is in beautiful condition and obviously working. What an excellent find. Sorry I don't have any literature for you.
__________________
Jordan |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
nice set !!!!!!
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes, the safety glass can be removed. But, be careful of the rubber seal, it is rotten most of the time and can be very messy to deal with. Yours looks good though {sometimes it is melting and dripping down the glass} Look up under the top part of the bezel that holds on the glass, there should be screws underneath, remove those and try to tilt the glass towards you. Be careful, the metal bezel can come off the glass while you are wiggling it, I'd hate for you to break the glass. It is held in at the bottom by a slot that it fits into. Good luck with that beautiful set! SOOO JEALOUS! {smile}
Mark
__________________
My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks for the tips on the safety glass. I safely removed, cleaned and put it back in place. I replaced the Electrolytic cans this afternoon, No noticeable change other than horizontal sync going out within 30 seconds of turning the set on. The images still look squashed and I don't see any kind of vertical linearity adjustment on the chassis. Guess I need a schematic to continue.
Jim
__________________
image.php?u=360&type=sigpic&dateline=1196226370 |
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
You probably have some out of tolerance resistors in the vertical section. Have you tested the horiz. out tube and the damper? Are the images squashed vertically or horizontally? Please post a pic of it going haywire. It does sound like you need a schematic, try the library for sams folders. I've had to buy a few directly from sams, thirty bucks but was worth it. I can also check at Chesters electronics, they have lots of sams and I'm going there this afternoon. If they have one I'll pick it up for you {they're cheap}. Glad the glass came off nicely for you.
Mark
__________________
My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here are a couple photos when the picture goes haywire. Sometimes the image stops moving for a few seconds (though not locked in) then starts flipping, etc... Adjusting the horizontal knob on front only makes it worse and causes that whinning sound. I've tested and replaced the Horizontal output and Damper tubes, Tried 3 different good 6Cg7's no change.
Jim
__________________
image.php?u=360&type=sigpic&dateline=1196226370 |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Nice set. I'm jealous. Enjoy it in good health.
|
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
I don't know about that one, but on my CTC-11 there are 2 diodes in the horiz. sync circuit. One had gone bad and, at best, I could just get a jittery picture for a few seconds. These may have originally been a dual diode (2-in-1) but you can replace with seperate parts if needed. Again, I don't know how they did it on the -9, could have been done by tube.
__________________
Bryan |
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
The vertical controls are probably located behind the contrast and vert hold control. Pull the knobs and look at the shafts. The hollow ones are the adjustments for the vertical height and linearity
if the picture is tearing and flipping at the same time look to the sync circuits. You've lost sync pulses. Probably due to a failing component or bad solder connections.
__________________
Jordan |
| Audiokarma |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
on my ctc9 and ctc10 sets there was a black beauty cap on the horizontal osc. board. that needs to be changed as well as the one on the ac input where the cord plugs into the chassis. my ctc10 had some bad orange drops in the verticle circuit they do go bad. steve
|
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
I saw that black beauty on the Horizontal osc. board this morning and replaced it. The sync problem has gone away and the picture locks in and stays there. However, I sprayed the color/sound controls with tuner/contact cleaner and now the color is out. All I get is a B/W picture with red lines around images. I'll replace those orange drops under the chassis. Vertical linearity is much improved since the adjustment controls were found.
Jim
__________________
image.php?u=360&type=sigpic&dateline=1196226370 |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
Did you spray in the stuff that has the yellowish lube or regular contact cleaner? I used tuner cleaner{yellowish lube} in a color control of a '72 GE and the color went nuts, the lube sometimes causes drift. Although, you may have another problem. The red lines sound like the convergence is a bit off, no biggie. I also picked up the schematic if you are interested.
__________________
My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes I'm interested in a schematic, I need one. I pulled the chassis today and replaced all the orange drops. I've tested all tubes in the set and replaced the weak ones. I can get color to return If I turn the color control knob to a certain posistion and push down on the shaft. If I don't keep pressure on the shaft the color goes away again. Could something have disintegrated inside the control? Here are a few current screenshots.
Jim
__________________
image.php?u=360&type=sigpic&dateline=1196226370 |
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
I think you need a new color control pot.
|
| Audiokarma |
![]() |
|
|