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  #1  
Old 02-03-2011, 02:32 PM
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Motorola Quasar Part needed

I had a friend look at the 1967 Motorola Quasar console and said this part needs to be replaced, he said it looked like liquid was spilled off the back of the set at one time, and dripped down causing the part to corrode inside, and causing the green and red shadows off images on the screen.. Does anyone know where i could obtain this part? It's pictured with a green circle to show the part..

Thanks..
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2011, 02:38 PM
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Red and blue and green overlap sounds like what you are talking about. So those knobs are no longer adjustable?
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Old 02-03-2011, 02:47 PM
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He adjusted everything in the set, brought the picture tube more back to life, he tested the CRT with my Sencore CR70, and he seems to think the Sencore is not working properly as it gives the same reading for all three guns.. He left his CRT Testor home.. The needle barley flinches when switching the guns in emission test. He thinks there's a week red i think, if i remember correctly the gun he said, from all the other tests he did. Which knobs would you be talking about? He also brightened the picture up, and the CRT shows fine horizontal lines (Left to Right) when there is a blank screen in between commercials etc. he said another reason the CRT is probably week. He's worked for a company back in the 70's so i think he knows what he's doing..

Last edited by tvcollector; 02-03-2011 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:08 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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not sure I follow why the same reading is not right? perhaps it just tracks well. I have a CR 70 and thats the way mine works. the horz lines maybe an AGC setting if not due to high bright/low contrast setting. Of course if you have help, I dont know how much better exp advise you will get online, its hard do diagnose without being there.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:12 PM
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as far as convergence, if one of the coils is open, then you would have problems on the edges, the center should be converged with the static magnets. I have not see a static magnet setup like that, I guess its that white affair with the multitabs. I would think an open coil could be confirmed with a resistance check. Perhaps the convergence board has issues. sometimes the diode packs will be bad.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:15 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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I would try and take that clover leaf apart and carefully clean/free it up with some wd40 and test the coils. Even if the liquid ate the coils you should be able to get the colors to converge fairly well in the center of the screen. You need a grid generator to set that up, there is almost no way without one. Most likely you could substitute that part with one form a similar set with some research and soldering.

Sounds like the crt maybe a tad weak and he cranked the screen or bias up to high and now your are seeing retrace lines.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:55 PM
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ctc17 yup he cranked the bias up which now brights the screen but now the lines are visible. I did that myself before but i set it back to the position it was at, due to components working harder to make up for a week CRT.. He also used a grid generator, well at least i think it's what he used, it showed white lines as a grid and he adjusted the color while using it..

Dave The Sencore reads the CRT well into the good, but when the guns are switched while testing, the needle does not move, to show one weeker than the other, it just finches while clicking to the next gun, so he seems to think the Sencore is not working properly and thinks a big percent the CRT is week.. He said he's not familiar with the Sencore CR70, so i don't know if it can test each gun or test all three in all. Does your Sencore do the same thing when testing the guns?, He's going to come over and test it with his Tester to see what it reads.. It sure is hard to figure out the problem when not being here, and it's hard for me to explain things, when technically I don't know the names of many adjustments testers and components..

Last edited by tvcollector; 02-03-2011 at 04:05 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:13 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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I was recently given a set like that with a weak crt. Upon researching the crt number all the info came back as 'worst color crt ever made'. I forget the number 23egp22? Something like that.

I dont know yet if the common 25xP22 will work in its place.

If this is the case with yours and its your daily watcher, you may want to seek out a vintage color set that uses more standard parts. RCA, Zenith etc
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:46 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctc17 View Post
I was recently given a set like that with a weak crt. Upon researching the crt number all the info came back as 'worst color crt ever made'. I forget the number 23egp22? Something like that.

I dont know yet if the common 25xP22 will work in its place.

If this is the case with yours and its your daily watcher, you may want to seek out a vintage color set that uses more standard parts. RCA, Zenith etc
If it's a Quasar solid state set, I dont think they ever used a 23EG. At that late in the game they went with 25X or 25A types of CRT's
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2011, 06:47 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I am a bit confused is there a reason to think one gun is weaker than the others? there can be a lot of reasons for weak color that does not include a bad CRT. I just got worked on an RCA that had almost no blue and red, The crt tested very good on all guns. It was a broken wire on a pcb that supplied B+ to a color amplifier tube. Video amp tubes can mess up the bias of a CRT, and AGC can cause a lot of problems if not workiing properly. Even really bad CRT's can be setup for decent performance, not great but decent.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:58 PM
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Hum where would the AGC control be on the set? maybe i'll adjust it a little to see any difference
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2011, 08:20 PM
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I don't know about a quasar, but on RCA's its a pot on the back and on zenith its a pot on the front. Not designed to be user adj, so you may have to look for it. if working the range of adj will be from a completely snowed pic, to a blacked out distorted pic. The correct setting is to adj to were the pic just starts to lose sync (this is due to the signal starting to enter the clipping stage of the IF amp, thereby losing the sync pulse) then back off until pic steadies. The pic should increase in contrast as you approach this loss of sync stage. This setting will put you at the max gain. The increase in contrast will cause the overall pic to get darker.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:21 PM
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I has a sylvania that if the AGC was not set right the entire screen would just black out.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2011, 11:50 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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Generally this is the way to set it up.

With a picture and the color at minimum (black and white)
Turn all 3 screen controls down (counter clockwise)
Turn the bias all the way down ....
Flip the switch to service
Advance the screen controls one at a time to get a dim white line, if you cant get a line or cant get one of the 3 color to show. (lets say you get a dim blue and green but cant see red, back off green and blue and increase the bias till you see a dim red line leaving the red screen at max then go back and advance the green and blue to get white.)
Put service switch back to normal now adjust the drive controls to get a fairly consistent black and white picture through a range of brightnesses.

Let the set warm up for at least 15-30 minutes before you do this.

You can get a rough idea of the condition of the crt doing this too. A strong crt will show all 3 lines with the bias at minimum and the screen controls around half way. If you have to crank the red screen all they way up and the bias all the way up to barely get a red line or you cant even get red with everything at max good chance the crt is very weak.

I have a motorola here with a dead crt and all 4 controls are at max, all the color are there the picture is very dim and washed out. Generally you get color smearing/trails/blowouts.
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  #15  
Old 02-04-2011, 12:54 AM
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Ctc17, i've done that on other sets, but in most cases it's usually one of the colors being on a higher level to make up for a week gun.. Also i have a set that equals a good bright picture, and turn the bright down to a dim picture, and you get a blue tint.. With the Motorola even with the color adjusted to, black and white, you still see the red and green shadows off certain images.. Also in certain pictures the image may look great but in others the screen looks dull and even out of focus, i think it depends on the lighting on the screen and colors of a scene that can make a week looking picture or a good picture, i notice peoples faces have more or less color according to what is in the background of the scene, and i notice even the focus like on an advertisement with a bright background causes the letters to become out of focus.. I think it's probably a week tube aswell as what my friend said, but also the set has a few other issues, like the part pictured. I don't know the name of it. Also a few caps in the power supply needs replaced which cause the screen to move in a wavery form, (Not really noticeable, but more noticeable on a still image).. It looks like i need a CRT, that other part that fits around the neck of the CRT, and caps replaced..Now finding those two parts, is this impossible?

Last edited by tvcollector; 02-04-2011 at 12:59 AM.
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