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#1
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Found a 19" Chromacolor II
I picked this up today, (not easy, it's heavy!) it has sound but no high voltage, hoping it's the Tripler since I have one of those on hand.
Guessing this is mid 70's, it's Solid State but old enough to have a Dot Matrix tube. It's filthy and covered with nicotine residue and kind of abused with a chip out of the cabinet, or as they would say on eBay, "Mint". I'll pop it open soon and take some inside pictures and try to find out why it doesn't work. There's a sticker on the back from a defunct repair shop in Pomona CA, the place is now a Thrift Store. https://maps.google.com/maps?q=908+e...12,141.86,,1,0 |
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#2
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Got it running.
Did some poking around, checking voltages here and there (though I had no idea what they should be) when I touched my test lead to the large transistor on the Horiz board the set came to life with a loud pop of high voltage!
I had to poke it a few more times to get it to stay running but apparently the issue is just a cold solder joint on this transistor. The CRT tests like new on all three guns and the cutoff is even on all three, hard to believe for a set that obviously has seen a lot of use. The picture is pulled in on the sides just a little and the tint range is a little off to the green side, (also the tuner is very dirty, I had a hard time getting it to tune to channel 3 for the pictures) so it could use a good tune up but with such a great CRT this set should be worth the effort. |
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#3
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Those are great TV's. Before you do anything else, make sure the safety cap has been updated to the orange drop. If it still has the white cap (which, I doubt), it needs to be replaced before you turn it on again.
There's an electrolytic cap in the horizontal driver circuit that will cause picture pull-in and eventual shorting of the HOT. Back in the mid '90's, I bought one of these for fifty cents at a church rummage sale. The tripler was arcing and created quite an odor. After replacement, it was an excellent TV.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut |
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#4
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Its a 17" E-line or poss F. Abt '74 or '75 I think they had better pix than the
19", always liked them. For the width also check the 1.5 ohm resistor in the HOT base. For safety cap I dont see the label we put on them. It may have separate 22-5001 caps on the flyback & the bottom chassis. Change them all if it uses them. If it has one big one with 4 wires under the HOT heat sink change it if its white. Up to run 400 uses separate caps. Run 401 up uses one big cap. good luck 73 Zeno
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#5
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The 17" set I had produced a better picture than the 19" sets and I liked the delta gun version over the later inline version.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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i bought one of these 17 incers for my son back in the mid 70s.finest picture i ever saw .it lasted 10 years and when he left home,it went with him.though we have lost touch,10 years ago he still had it and actually was using it periodically.heavy as hell but the finest quality.this is a winner and a for sure keeper
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#7
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Are these the caps (photo below?)
I resoldered the transistors on the Horiz board to try to cure the intermittent, it seemed to have worked but very shortly after turning it back on I started to hear some HV arcing and shortly it was shooting fire out the bottom of the tripler, hopefully it's not a runaway HV problem but I will need to replace those caps and the tripler before I try it again. Rechecked the CRT and it's still fine. Possibly the Tripler was what took this set out of service originally, I don't think that inch long crack happened instantly. The intermittent connection may have come later, maybe when I fixed that it brought the HV up enough for the Tripler to start leaking again? Will a 212-148-01 Tripler replace a 212 141 05? Turns out he one I have is totally wrong for this model so I will have to find another one. |
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#8
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I believe an NTE526 or ECG526 is what you are looking for. It's not uncommon for those triplers to crack and shoot fire. If possible, try to find a NOS tripler because a used one will likely fail soon. Tripler failures were very common in Zenith's. Those white caps need to go. Replace them with Sprague orange drops or another good brand of capacitor with the same or greater voltage rating and the capacitance value should be the same as the original capacitors.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut Last edited by radiotvnut; 08-16-2013 at 09:47 PM. |
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#9
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Someone on eBay is selling safety caps, he has a .0018mf 1600v Zenith 22-5001 which is the same part number as mine but it's a 4 leg.
Someone else is selling a boatload of Triplers, both NOS and used but i don't need that many! http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-lot-of-v...item35ca874516 |
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#10
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The 4 lead safety cap is located under or behind the HOT heatsink, IIRC.
You definitely want to replace this, because if it opens, the HV can rise high enough to potentially damage the CRT, flyback, or the replacement tripler. The HV can actually punch through the tube neck, and arc to ground through the yoke windings, cutting the neck right off in the process. |
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#11
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Don't put any white cap in this set, not even a NOS one.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut |
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#12
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If I can't find a NOS, four leg Zenith Orange drop can I just use a couple of any new .0018 1600 volt capacitors to replace them?
(m assuming that value from the eBay listing). |
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#13
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Yes, that should work fine. I did that to a 19" Magnavox that had a shorted 4-lead safety cap. It worked fine and didn't come back.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut |
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#14
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Quote:
is 921-500. In theory you can use any tripler from an upright to replace it. Beware of other triplers, some are quadruplers or have different internals, pinout etc. You got the right caps, there are 2 more on the flyback IIRC The OEM orange ones are still around NOS. Check that 1.5 ohm while you got the chassis tilted back, replace it with a film or carbon not a wire wound.......... 73 Zeno
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#15
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I'm really confused about these triplers.
You are saying the 526 will replace the one in this set but it doesn't look right, it only has 4 connections where the OEM has 5. One seems to have the focus divider built in, the other does not. I have a 523 and it looks the same as the 526 but nothing like what's in my set. The first picture below is a 526, the second is a 560. The second one looks like what I have but is not the correct number, should it work anyway? I can't find the 921-500 number associated with a Tripler anywhere? Also, I would like to replace the capacitors with an OEM Orange Drop but am not sure of the number of the replacement? My caps are Zenith 22-5001 but I'm guessing the replacement has a new number? Sorry, lots of questions but I appreciate the help! |
| Audiokarma |
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