Socket re-gluing and flyback repair...

[VintagePC]

Just two things I have seen come up in other repairs and I'm interested in, since I'm in the same situation myself.

What do folks use to re-adhere loose CRT bases and insulating flybacks? Is there one product that works for both (since I probably don't have any on hand)?

I know folks use RTV sensor-safe (as in no acetic acid) silicone for flybacks, and I've seen a couple of things in Bob's videos where he repairs bases but can't for the life of me remember which videos and what he used.


Thanks for any info.

[DaveWM]

there is a fun video on u tube, rewaxing a flyback, uses a vacuum, hot wax and RTV.

I have used flex zap (CA glue but designed to have some give to it). Others have used silicone types.

[Findm-Keepm]

I've used RTV 3145 on a 21FJ, and a smaller 16" Black and white 90 degree tube. The 21FJ is in my CTC16, and no problems whatsoever.

Cheers,

[Findm-Keepm]

By the way, unopened tubes of RTV3145 are good for about a year past their expiration date. My tube (down to about a third of a tube) is still good, with an expiration in May 2011!! I got it at a flea market - some guy bought a bunch of Bendix aviation tooling and supplies and was liquidating it at a flea market. Wire crimpers, strippers, cable lacing, all for pennies. Thankfully, he had not looked at ebay before pricing his stuff. I got 3 brand-new wire strippers for 15 dollars and a bunch of wire (23 rolls, about 50 pounds in all) for 28 bucks. I got three tubes of RTV for 5 bucks, and have used about 1 and two-thirds tubes of the stuff since 2010.

Cheers,

[VintagePC]

Has anyone used Permetex 6B blue? It's marketed as "sensor safe" but spec sheet still mentions acetic acid.

[marty59]

For tube bases, believe it or not but I had Elmers white glue recommended to me by someone that was in a radio/ham club and it was their glue of choice. I have tried it and once set up it stays secure. Opinions will vary but there are some good choices including silicones. I think what's key here is making sure that something adheres and flows well to the original (hard) glue that's already there and (re)bonding.

[andy]

...

[VintagePC]

Originally Posted by andy

I usually use cyanoacrylate (superglue) for tube bases. It flows easily into even a small gap, and bonds almost instantly to the old glue. What little mess is leaves can easily be scraped off the glass. If you're careful, it looks original.

I think the original glue was some kind of cellulose based glue, but that would only work if you completely remove the base.

For silicone, I usually use GE silicone II although I don't think it's that critical for our applications. The acetic acid isn't there very long, and I've never seen any hint of corrosion from it. Just be sure it's silicone, not latex.

What I recall from past tidbits on this, the problem with superglue was that it didn't hold up all that well to the heat from the filament. I don't mind having to remove the base if necessary.

Also, GE's silicone II doesn't cure by acetic acid, so it should be fine for our applications (It cures and releases methanol, vs the standard Acetoxy stuff that releases acetic acid).

[StellarTV]

Clear nail polish has never let me down for regluing tube bases.

For recovering flybacks, I always use Permatex sensor safe black RTV silicon from the auto supply. I don't know what the jury says about acetic acid, but the fly I recoated in a predicta using permatex over 10 years ago isn't complaining.

[VintagePC]

Originally Posted by StellarTV

Clear nail polish has never let me down for regluing tube bases.

For recovering flybacks, I always use Permatex sensor safe black RTV silicon from the auto supply. I don't know what the jury says about acetic acid, but the fly I recoated in a predicta using permatex over 10 years ago isn't complaining.

I suspect that you'd really only have problems with the acetic if you have exposed windings where the acid can actually get at the copper... or if the varnish is weak enough that the acid can penetrate it.