![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
New Member With A Vintage TV
I have made my first vintage tv purchase. It is a 1952 Philco console model 52-T2151. The exterior of the tv is in very good condition. I believe it was a one owner tv for all of those years. I plan on using this tv for maybe an average of one to two hours per week. When it comes to vintage tv's, I know VERY little. This is what I do know about the tv. When I turn it on , there is no picture. All of the tubes seem to glow. The picture tube filaments glow. There is no sound to speak of but a low static sound if I turn the volume knob up or down.The high voltage output tube (in the enclosed metal section (p/n) 6BQ6UA was dead ( you could see where it had shorted out inside the tube). I am going to replace the bad tube and see what happens.
Any suggestions on where I should go from here? This is a great looking tv and I hope to keep it for a long time. Thanks in advance for any advice |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
That's probably one of the Philco split chassis sets. I restored one of those a couple of years ago for someone else and had a surprising number of problems with it, although that can happen with any vintage TV.
Best not to power it up too much before replacing the paper capacitors in the horizontal sweep section. Many folks would also advise replacing all the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply as well before powering up (I don't happen to do it that way myself, but it's important to keep in mind that a shorted electrolytic cap can be hard on your power transformer). You'll also want to figure out quite early in the process whether your picture tube is good. There are a couple of ways to do that: either use a CRT tester (which can often be obtained for very little money), or repair just enough of the TV's circuitry to get the horizontal sweep and high voltage sections working. Then by checking voltages on the CRT cathode and grids, and observing how bright the raster (or horizontal line if the vertical isn't working yet) you can get an idea. Finding a replacement CRT or having the old one rebuilt takes a bit of time and money if it turns out that yours is bad. Sometimes that means that a particular set is not the best choice for restoration, depending on sentimental value, how much you like the design, etc. Feel free to ask lots of questions here as you get started. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Wonder how similar it is to my 52-T1634? ![]() Mine was easy to fix, simple recap and it's still running strong to this day. |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
I wonder also... I have a '51 with a 16" round tube that has a Power transformer and 2 5U4 rectifiers. My '53 17" rectangular tube Philco has only a small filament transformer, and uses 2 selenium rectifiers in a voltage doubler circuit for the B+...so what does the power supply of a '52 look like?
The split chassis is fun to work on, each side is a very manageable size, and the tube stays in the cabinet. jr |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
From the tone of his post (referring to the horizontal output tube as the "high voltage output tube", et al.) I'd guess the OP is very new to TV repair and probably should, IMO, leave any service work on his set to a qualified person. Television repair is much more involved than radio or audio servicing; moreover, the high voltages present in a TV set, especially around the CRT (picture tube), can be dangerous or lethal if not approached in the correct manner.
BTW, my best friend's parents' first TV was a split-chassis Philco console similar to the OP's. I never saw their set in operation (I think they retired it and got a new, smaller set when my best friend and I were very small kids, IIRC--I'll have to ask him if he remembers anything about it), but I do remember seeing the set in their garage many years ago. The set is long gone by now, as my friend's parents no longer live in the neighborhood (four houses down the street from where I grew up), but the OP's mention of his split-chassis Philco 21" set immediately rang a bell in my head and sent my mind reeling back at least thirty years. Ah, memories. I wonder how many of those split-chassis Philcos were made, in what year, and how reliable they were. Did they have a decent picture? My best friend and I grew up in a far-suburban area for Cleveland TV and if I remember, there was a rather large antenna on the roof of his folks' house (the antenna was VHF only as Cleveland only had channels 3, 5 and 8 at the time, late '50s-early '60s). Were the split-chassis Philcos' tuners sensitive enough for use in far-suburban to fringe areas? I'm not sure, but I think my friend's folks' set had a 6BQ7 or other type cascode RF amplifier tube in the tuner and at least three video IF stages. However, if it had a garden-variety RF amp tube such as a 6GK5, 6HA5 or other small-signal tube, I can see the need for a large antenna -- sets with this type of low-gain RF amp (compared to cascode RF stages) needed all the incoming signal they could get, especially in moderate to weak signal areas. I live in an area of northeastern Ohio which is located some 35 miles from Cleveland and at least 40 miles from most of the area's television transmitters; I bet there were a lot of TV sets around here in the '50s-'60s, Philcos and other makes, with cascode RF stages (to say nothing of large near-fringe-area antennas on rooftops, some of which are still standing but falling apart), as the TV signals here are nowhere near city grade, especially in these days of all-digital TV; in fact, they never were, even when TV was all analog (the entire village is wired for cable, and just about everyone here has it or satellite).
__________________
Jeff, WB8NHV Collecting, restoring and enjoying vintage Zenith radios since 2002 Zenith. Gone, but not forgotten. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Mine has all the low and high voltage stuff on one chassis (sweep chassis), while the audio and video circuits are on the other smaller one. My B+ supply has 3 5Y3GT rectifiers, high voltage is provided by a pair of 6BQ6GT's running in parallel to drive the flyback, rectifiers are 1X2's. Audio is an SE 6V6GT, and I have only the video output tube running since on air stuff dried up. I just route composite signals right to the vid tube grid, it works great. There's a rebuild thread on ARF: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/...014&highlight= ![]()
|
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Welcome ! Neat ol' Philco-An' I think you'll find you're amongst friends here...
__________________
Benevolent Despot |
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
Nobody has asked you this yet, but how well are you at getting around electronics? Vintage TV's should be approached with the same basics as with anything else that is of vintage plus there is a whole lot more going on and to be aware of.
If you're comfortable with tube audio and radios and have some experience then all the better, but either way you've come to the right place! And to elaborate on what Tom had mentioned, instant on-power ups can be fetal for next to impossible to find parts so turn ons are critical at this point and should be avoided as a chassis inspection is in order. Leaky electrolytics, paper capacitors, burnt components are a stopping point and must be remedied before proceeding! Hopefully, you have a variac or a poor man's version "Dim Bulb" tester! |
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
I do believe that my '52 Philco 52-T2151 may be a split chassis. I don't know of a vintage tv repair person in my area (norfolk va.) so would it be feasible to send one section of the split chassis at a time to someone who repairs vintage sets and have him check all of the tubes and the overall condition of that section of the chassis? Is it difficult to find a crt tester with a connector that will fit my picture tube?
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Also repairing these things long distance is an iffy proposition at best, it's time consuming enough trying to fine tune everything when you have the set right in front of you much less shipping it back and forth! Some last little problem always seems to pop up at the last minute requiring more work. I do believe if you can operate a screwdriver and a soldering iron though you can learn to do this yourself, hang around, read and watch and soon you'll want to dig in and try your hand at fixing it. It's a good set to start with, not too complicated and common enough to be able to find parts for in most cases. Last edited by Eric H; 04-27-2010 at 08:28 PM. |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
'52 Philco in natural setting
'52 Philco in natural setting
A set like this shows up in some Christmas photos being sold on eBay (I am not affiliated)... some years it is in the corner, some years in the archway....In 1964, it appears that it was replaced by a color roundie. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories Sample photo posted. Last edited by jr_tech; 04-28-2010 at 12:33 AM. |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks For The Advice
I just wanted to say I appreciate the advice on repairing my '52 philco.
I am going to try and learn as much as I can from this forum and hope to get a picture on my set eventually. I want to keep this tv for a long time so be prepared for more questions! Thanks Again. |
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
|
its worth the effort to learn, just take your time and as others have said, hang around, read,read, read. It's a lot of fun.
|
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
Wow, they really simplified the 52 model compared to the 51. Smaller RF/IF chassis, and the horizontal oscillator circuitry is not wired on the outside front of the high voltage cage. They probably got the cost down, and hopefully made it more reliable.
|
| Audiokarma |
![]() |
|
|