Any advice on bringing stuff to the ETF to sell for the first time

[Electronic M]

I'm planning on bringing three sets to the ETF meet to sell. I've never sold any of my TVs before, and would like some advice on whether to put them in the swap meet, the auction or both and what is involved in doing that.

The three sets are a 9T246 that has been fully recapped and works, but has a problem with the H lin coil overheating and a dirty tuner. A 1952 Philco split chassis console that has the papers and PS doublers replaced and works well, and a working 17" Zenith metal table set that is missing the screws that hold the back on and most of the built in antenna. I'm thinking of asking 100$ for the RCA and 40$ for the other two. Do you think they will sell somewhere around there(am I asking too much)? And is there a market for these sets? I don't want to bring these, and then have to haul them back home with me. I'm thinking of bringing a converter box with to show the better working ones off.







Any opinions appreciated.

If this post is in the wrong place please feel free to move it.

[Adam]

If you're driving through Kalamazoo on your way to the ETF and want to make a stop I'll buy that Zenith from you.

[Electronic M]

Nope. I live near Milwaukee so it is Milwaukee to Chicago then through Indiana to the meet.

I might be able to ship the Zenith to you if you want it bad enough, and are willing to pay the shipping costs involved. PM me if interested.

[Adam]

I'm sending a PM about the Zenith...

[dtvmcdonald]

I got the 9T246 home and after a warmup it sort of works (perfect audio, e.g.).
With the horiz coil still missing its slug I see a picture on scenes with near-white background, but it looks like, since I must guess, that the sync and AGC keying
are way off and making the bad and unstable picture if its a dark background.
Is this the symptom with no slug? Could that cause this symptom. I'll try to find
a slug tomorrow. Was it overheating with the proper slug?

Doug McDonald

[Electronic M]

I recall the synch was solid back when I stopped working on it.
I haven't powered it up since before I removed the width slug. So I don't know what exact effect it would have, but I would imagine that it ought to be limited to the picture geometry.
The width coil was not the coil that was overheating. The one that was overheating was the horizontal linearity coil which is under the chassis and can be adjusted via a hole in the back of the chassis. There is also an extra capacitor installed across or near the linearity coil that I believe I added my self to get the horizontal section to a point where I could get the width and linearity correct within the range of the controls. It should be easy to spot as I believe it is the only remaining cap composed of multiple caps connected in parallel.