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#1
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Well, I think my 1982 Zenith needs help, I think a capacitor or two went. First when I try to power her up I get a buzz and if I get her going, she goes for about a few minutes and then shuts off and buzzes. I knew I probably had a funky cap or two, most likely on the 9-186-01 HV board but she still ran. She also had white retrace lines on 2/3rd s of the screen too from time to time. I'm just looking for input but what research I did, basically the 9-186 board needs replaced or worked on. She is a SY2585P model with a 9-181 chassis and 9-186-01 HV board. I've seen 9-186-03 through 10 boards for sale and would like to know if they can fit, I know an 05 or 06 can fit from prior research. Also, what SAMs book should I get, i tried to search with the model number but it isn't listed although I'm sure any SAMs that covers the 9-181 and 9-186 will do. This is my first time digging this deep into the TV so i want do do it right. I know you have to discharge the CRT too, I've seen it done where the TV tech used a screwdriver with a plastic handle (of course) with a wire and 1 meg resistor hooked to the chassis for ground. This is what I can figure but I'm open for advice to people that are pros and more familiar. I would like to keep the old girl going, I know this is a labor of love but it does mean a lot to me as many of you can understand.
__________________
Mom (1938 - 2013) - RIP, I miss you Spunky, (1999 - 2016) - RIP, pretty girl! Rascal, (2007 - 2021) RIP, miss you very much |
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#2
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First your model is not in the Y-line catalogue. It is a drop in. The
high model number usually means its a high end set. BUT the 9-181-00 does not have a comb filter. Post a pix of the front & I can match it to other models. You can use any 9-181, 9-186 schematic to start, they are close enuf. The retrace is probably the filter cap for the 200V that supplies the 3 video outs. Its a 5 or 10 mfd, replace with a 450V. Maybe its the whole problem. For subs you need to find someone with a CRSP or parts price list. 73 Zeno ![]() LFOD ! |
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#3
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Quote:
__________________
Mom (1938 - 2013) - RIP, I miss you Spunky, (1999 - 2016) - RIP, pretty girl! Rascal, (2007 - 2021) RIP, miss you very much |
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#4
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OK, here is the pic of the set, if you need more, let me know.
__________________
Mom (1938 - 2013) - RIP, I miss you Spunky, (1999 - 2016) - RIP, pretty girl! Rascal, (2007 - 2021) RIP, miss you very much |
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#5
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OK Sams 2146-2 is the same style & year.
It uses 9-181-02 & 9-186-01 Cap I mentioned is C3496 & seems to be on the 9-181 NOTES Early 9-181 used IC sockets, they were eliminated. You had to move the IC's & 3 color outs to the new board. PIA There were 2 types of start circuit. One used a transformer on the 9-181 the other a multivibrator on a PCB mounted on the hoz out heat sink. 9-186 comes mounted PCB only. You dont get the heat sink, small parts etc. ( watch for overheated hoz yoke plug ! ). BTW I have 2146. If you cant find a free one PM me for price MUCH less than sams & a real quality printing, not a crappy PDF or Xerox. 73 Zeno ![]() LFOD ! |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Quote:
__________________
Mom (1938 - 2013) - RIP, I miss you Spunky, (1999 - 2016) - RIP, pretty girl! Rascal, (2007 - 2021) RIP, miss you very much |
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#7
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Yup the outputs plug in. Near them is a printed resistor package. Its
black & white, long & thin. Whenever you see one resolder it. The 10mfd cap I mentioned causes retrace & a bunch of other often subtle & intermitent symptoms. Just change it, they are a common fail on ALL brands. Last go over the 9-186 real good for cold joints. 73 Zeno ![]() LFOD ! |
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